How to use DMM Quickdraw, Maintenance and Servicing, warnings and lifespan with instructional pictures.
Alpha Trad 12cm
The Alpha Trad excels in Summer and Winter, from cragging to expeditions and everything in between. The beautifully hot forged ergonomic back combines with the clean nose wire gate to provide an easy clipping, fumble-free, anti-snag biner.
Full size clean nose wire gate biner
Strong and lightweight I-Beam construction
Safer, deeper rope basket
Easy to handle, grippy shape
Generous 8.5mm rope radius
Clean nose profile to reduce snagging
Available as an 11mm Dyneema quickdraw in 12cm, 18cm or 25cm lengths
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In general the quickdraws we reviewed are all good quality products that you can't really go wrong with. For someone after pure weight-saving then 12 CAMP Nanos will weight roughly the same as 10 Edelrid Missions. Where every gram counts this might be the difference between success and failure. Having said that it is almost certain that on most long trad pitches, rope drag is going to add a lot more than the weight of a quickdraw to slow you down, so a good mixture of longer quickdraws and extension slings like the 25cm DMM Alpha Trad will be more beneficial to help reduce rope drag. Those who are prone to fumble clipping might want to steer clear of the very smallest krabs and go for a good clean nose style like the Black Diamond Oz.
During writing this test I have had a trad rack consisting of at least one of all the quickdraws in this review and I have found myself choosing the quickdraw based on the placement - long ones for runners to the side, short ones for the low runners, clean nose for the grip clip, leaving the very lightest ones for the top. I wouldn't advise carrying 7 different styles, but a mixture of lengths and styles is definitely worth considering.