How to use Carabiners and Quickdraws, warnings, inspection, care and maintenence with instructional pictures.
Our lightest quickdraw, the Black Diamond Oz Quickdraw now features the snag-free benefits of our HoodWire Technology, making it ideal for trimming ounces on all-day gear routes and marathon sport pitches. Featuring hot-forged Oz carabiner on the top and bottom as well as a lightweight 10 mm Dynex dogbone, this draw shines on alpine missions and any climb where a light rack is crucial to the send. The Oz's patent-pending stainless steel wire hood brings keylock functionality to wiregate carabiners and makes for hassle-free clipping and cleaning.
Oz carabiners on top and bottom.
Patented stainless steel wire hood design doesn’t snag, eases clipping and cleaning.
Dual wiregates eliminate any chance of gate flutter.
Equipped with a 10 mm Dynex Dogbone with Straitjacket.
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No voice but worth watching.
Oz review by Outdoor Gear Lab.
Overall the Black Diamond Oz is great if you are looking for something ultra-lightweight. It received the highest rating for portability, but it comes at the expense of handling and clipping. If you have hands the size of a ten year old or you're willing to deal with smaller carabiners in exchange for weight savings then you'll want to have a set of these on your rack.
In general the quickdraws we reviewed are all good quality products that you can't really go wrong with. For someone after pure weight-saving then 12 CAMP Nanos will weight roughly the same as 10 Edelrid Missions. Where every gram counts this might be the difference between success and failure. Having said that it is almost certain that on most long trad pitches, rope drag is going to add a lot more than the weight of a quickdraw to slow you down, so a good mixture of longer quickdraws and extension slings like the 25cm DMM Alpha Trad will be more beneficial to help reduce rope drag. Those who are prone to fumble clipping might want to steer clear of the very smallest krabs and go for a good clean nose style like the Black Diamond Oz.
During writing this test I have had a trad rack consisting of at least one of all the quickdraws in this review and I have found myself choosing the quickdraw based on the placement - long ones for runners to the side, short ones for the low runners, clean nose for the grip clip, leaving the very lightest ones for the top. I wouldn't advise carrying 7 different styles, but a mixture of lengths and styles is definitely worth considering.
I've been to three goat-ropes, two cockfights and a state fair and I've never seen anything like Black Diamond's new quickdraw. Based on their Oz carabiner, it weighs in at only 2.2oz. for the whole enchilada, two wiregates and a 12cm. Dynex dogbone.
The Oz quickdraws have gotten a lot of use and I am happy to have the variety added by having four longer DMM Phantom draws. I have gotten used to the lightweight feel of the Oz biners and can clip them with ease. Having quickdraws that only weigh around 60 grams each really helps reduce the weight on longer climbs. They also help you have a lighter pack for strenuous Sierra aproaches.
The Oz feels almost like a standard carabiner. Its frame is among the easiest to grab, it holds the most gear and its wire gate has the best action. It also has the widest rope-bearing surface, making it the most rope-friendly of the carabiners, though just barely. I also liked the gently curved lower arm, which will take wide webbing and pins better than the other biners. A few outings with the Oz made me wonder if I’ll ever go back to larger, heavier quickdraws for anything other than big-wall racking.