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durable

Altios

Petzl
Petzl Altios
3.48

I feel naked without it.

Pros
durable
comfortable
Good ventilation
Sexy
Rides well
Cons
Rides a little high

I've had this helmet (in gray, of course) since 2011. I'm a little ashamed to admit it, but I have a pin head. No doubt it's crammed full with a dense and incredibly efficient brain, hence the headaches, but it does create a problem when finding helmets that fit properly. I really hate looking like an 8 year old girl on a barbie bike with handle bar tassels while a bowling ball that's been chopped in half, painted like a ladybug, and passed off as a helmet sits so far back on her head there is actual danger the chin strap might at any moment constrict her esophagus and cause an untimely death. But that is often the case with One-size-fits-all helmets for me. Don't get me wrong, I'm a proud supporter of girls on bikes, even pink bikes, but loose fitting helmets suck. I say loose instead of poorly fitting because I've never really experienced a helmet that was too tight.

The small size in the Altios fits me pretty damn well. The quick-adjust wheel knob deelie works well with one hand when switching between wearing a hat under the helmet and not. I've used the helmet on rock, ice, and glacier and I have been pleased by it's performance, if sitting in one place all day, attempting to not get noticed can be considered a performance. I haven't taken any major falling objects to the head while wearing this helmet but I have been pretty rough with it and it still looks almost new after 3 years. I wish I could say the same for the fading Justin Bieber stickers. The hybrid suspension system is very comfortable and has allowed for more ventilation than non-suspension helmets. I used the past tense for the ventilation because over time the suspension has relaxed/streched and now sits on the foam. I don't notice this from either a comfort or ventilation stand point but I think it's worth noting. The one other thing I'm not super stoked about on the Altios is the side straps that go around your ears do not have any length adjustment. The chin strap does and that buckle works alright, but I've found that the side straps can end up biting into the bottom of my ear over time. It only happens on one side because of course God thought it would be a good idea to make my ears lop-sided.

Overall I would say I've been very pleased with how the Altios has held up over the years and how it only rarely made its presence known over a long day in the mountains. That being said, it's not the lightest helmet on the market and I think, depending on fit of course, I'm going to be looking to a foam helmet in the future. Something like the BD Vapor or the Petzl Sirocco, but only if they change that heinous color.

Dash Dirtbag 11cm

Omega Pacific
Omega Pacific Dash Dirtbag
3.48

As cheap as a Scottish dirtbag and about as pretty

Pros
cheap
simple
durable
Cons
basic

I've been using the Dash Dirtbag 'draws for a few months now, almost exclusively on sport routes. Although I was not initially impressed by how these draws looked, climb after climb, I find myself reaching for these things instead of the other draws in my pack. The simple reason is that they work. For such a dirt-cheap draw, the Dash Dirtbags do what they're supposed to do and they do it pretty damn well. No pretty colors, no fancy key-lock nose, just easy clipping bolt after bolt. They're size is deceptive too. At first I thought they were going to be a little small, and with two straight gates they may not clip the rope effectively. Wrong. The smaller size and rounded nose actually make clipping bolts pretty easy. Especially those bolts where the threads are protruding and might interfere with larger carabiners. The Dash Dirtbags clip ropes surprisingly well also. The dog-bones are sewn tight around the rope-side 'biner, which negates the need for a rubber keeper and makes identifying the loosely sewn bolt-side 'biner easy enough for proper racking.

Conclusion: If you're looking for a dirt cheap quickdraw that will last for years and won't leave you cursing at each clip, the Dash Dirtbags will perform admirably. But if you're someone that wants to look like they climb so hard they need the absolute best (read: most expensive) gear available, these are not for you.

ATC

Black Diamond
Black Diamond ATC
3.48

Smooth but a little limiting

Pros
simple
durable
Smooth
Cons
no teeth
Only basic features
no guide mode

After loosing my ATC Guide, I've been using a borrowed std ATC for the last couple of months. When climbing single pitch routes, with relatively light partners, the std ATC is great. Super smooth pay-out, lowering, and double-rope rappelling. The problems with this belay device come into play when I'm climbing multi-pitch routes or with climbers that are heavier than I am (unfortunately, this is hard to find). The lack of teeth does limit how heavy of a climber you can belay, and if you're on the heavier side of spectrum, it might be unnerving to repel with if the ropes are skinny. But if you're looking for an inexpensive, simple belay device that'll last you years, and you know you'll only be climbing with the ladies or the dudes that look like ladies, this device will be fine. Nothing special, but works well for what it was made to do.

Elia 2015

Petzl
Petzl Elia
5.16

Because it came in PURPLE.

Pros
durable
easy to adjust
Ponytail slot
Attractive
Cons
Padding at headband is pretty thick and makes for a warm wear
sits high

I gotta admit, for an impulse buy, this is one divine helmet. Having seen that this lovely helmet came in a great, bright purple color, I decided to buy it (because everyone can use a 'spare' for when their friends visit, right???) and have been absolutely thrilled. I can now keep my ponytail up (instead of having to take it down and deal with the flyaway hair) since it has a ponytail slot. There is enough adjustability in the sizing that I can wear a hat underneath for cold days, and the straps stay in place once you've adjusted them.

Aside from how it sits a little high, my only complaint is that the padding in the headband is pretty thick. On a hot day, this is uncomfortable, but quickly goes to the back of your mind when working a climb. Definitely not enough to make me think I need a different helmet. Elia FTW.

ATC Guide 2018

Black Diamond
Black Diamond ATC Guide Green
4.32

Making life easier, one grippy belay at a time.

Pros
Lightweight
durable
multi-use

This is a great multi-use belay device. The toothed side is perfect for belaying a heavier climber, or for a single-rope rappel; the device is great for belaying a lead climber, or a top-roper and can be used to belay off an anchor. After 2 years of belaying with this device, the teeth are definitely showing signs of wear, but due to the triangular shape it is still sufficient for a controlled belay or rappel. If you're only going to buy one belay device this one is pretty great!