The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
Ultralight Curve Nut 5
• By attaching the cable directly to the nut and eliminating the swage we have made these 30% lighter than the
• Anodized heads and collars are color-coded to match our cam colors
• Combines the stability of 3-point contact with the ease of a straight-sided taper
• CNC technology for optimized shape
• Side-to-side curve for greater stability in flaring placements
•Straight-sided taper makes it easy to judge placement quality
• 7075-T6 aluminum (sizes #1-#5) 6061-T6 aluminum (sizes #6-#10)
• CE/UIAA certified
• Hand built, inspected and individually proof tested in Bend, Oregon
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|Weight (grams / ounces)||22 g / 0.80 oz|
|Size||5 full size (full strength)|
|Colors as a Nut Set||Multi|
|Strength (kilonewtons)||7 kN|
|Range (inches / millimeters)|| 0.56 in - 0.70 in|
14.20 mm - 17.80 mm
|Material(s)|| Main Material: 7075-T6 aluminum|
Some other nice features include a color scheme that correlates to Metolius brand cams, and color-coded “collars” that make identifying and choosing the right nut quicker. The price point is pretty high—more than similar offerings—but you get your money’s worth, and I’d say the price is justified.These nuts, what with their light weight and versatility in different shaped cracks, would be a good choice for long alpine routes, but are great for any trad or aid outing. And if you happen to get one stuck, just give me a call—I’m thinking I’ll try to booty mostly these from now on.
Metolius Curve Nuts and Wild Country Superlight Rocks are the lightest we tested. This makes Curve Nuts a great option for alpine climbers or anyone looking to save weight. Their three-point point curve is tapered nicely and works well in an assortment of placements and rock types, and excels in irregular rock.
After four months of use, the wires still look new, and the heads have the minor dings and dents expected of gear that's been used.
Though I'll break out the Ultralight Curves for climbing hard, single-pitch trad routes—where I can just clean the pesky placements on rappel—I prefer other nuts because of ease of use. That said, the Ultralight Curves are the most confidence inspiring passive gear on my rack.