The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
Variability and speed. Set of seven nuts (5 made from hard aluminum alloy and 2 from brass) on a steel wire. Lightweight set with one side in asymmetric/offset shape, for a better and easler placement. They can be used in two different positions in a crack range from 6 to 29 mm.
|Weight (grams / ounces)||18 g / 0.63 oz|
|Size||1 full size (full strength)|
|Colors as a Nut Set||Double|
|Strength (kilonewtons)||4 kN|
|Offset||Yes, offset for irregular cracks|
|Range (inches / millimeters)|| 0.24 in - 0.47 in|
6.00 mm - 12.00 mm
|Material(s)|| Main Material: Brass|
Wire Material: Steel
They’re pretty comparable and I’ll let you draw your own conclusions. The important point I’d like to make here is that despite their subtle differences they are both perfectly fit for purpose and both are approved by the UIAA, at the end of the day what it might just come down to your personal preference. Earlier, we asked what you get for your money. Well, you get a pretty good set of nuts at a good price. I don’t think I’d ever climb only on offsets but my rack now comprises a selection of offsets along with symmetrical ones giving me more gear options than I’ve had before. I just wish they were all colour-coded.