Instruction for using DMM Nut and warnings, maintenance and lifespan with instructional pictures.
Wallnuts are a long established favourite across the world. This classic wired nut has a carefully designed shape that gives you the best possible chance of getting a good solid placement every time.
A set Wallnuts, usually with double ups in the small to medium sizes, is the basis of a good quality rack. Think of it as the platform upon which you can build your own personalised system.
Over the years we have continued to refine and improve the design. Modern production techniques have allowed us to make huge reductions in the weight, but without sacrificing strength or durability. The tried and tested Wallnut shape has been enhanced by adding a scoop to improve security in shallow placements.
We’ve also colour coded them to make size selection easier. The energy you will save by making speedy nut placements could be the difference between success and failure on a route.
The colours are compatible with other nut brands, so if you’re thinking of mixing and matching, or want to switch brands entirely you won’t have to get used to a new colour/size pattern.
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DMM Wallnuts fit a wide range of rock and crack types well but they excel in irregular or heavily textured stone such as that at Smith Rocks, Maple Canyon and J-Tree. Wallnuts were among the best performing nuts in parallel sided cracks. Wallnuts are expensive but very durable. They place easily and placements are average to assess. They are a more difficult to clean than most of the nuts we tested.
The color coded heads make it easier to grab the right size with a little experience, and anything that helps with efficiency of placement on the sharp end is allright by me. At under a Benjamin for a full set #1 to 10 you just can't go wrong. As with all nuts, make sure you have a nut tool to extract after loading.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-124 and EN-12270 standards for chocks (which includes nuts and hexes).