Instruction for using DMM Nut and warnings, maintenance and lifespan with instructional pictures.
Micro Wallnut 00
The large contact surface area of the Micro Wallnuts allows them to spread loads over a greater area of rock, decreasing the chance of the rock failing.
They feature straight sides to give alternative placement options to our other alloy micro-protection. Used in conjunction with Peenuts they provide comprehensive protection for small cracks in friable rock.
As climbs become harder, the need to make the most of all available protection increases. Micro protection lets you protect cracks which normal sized pieces would not fit. Having these wires on your rack gives you more options.
These nuts have large surface areas that spread forces in a fall across a greater area, increasing placement security in fragile rock. They increase security on routes where fragile rock may be encountered.
The DMM protection range is color coded for quick and easy size selection. Colors are co-ordinated across passive and active protection, for quick selection of alternatives if your first choice doesn't fit.
Passive protection works by jamming in constrictions to prevent falls. It is suitable for use in all conditions. Unlike active protection such as cams, passive protection can be used in wet or icy cracks, where friction is reduced.
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The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-124 and EN-12270 standards for chocks (which includes nuts and hexes).