Instruction for using DMM Nut and warnings, maintenance and lifespan with instructional pictures.
Brass I.M.P. 1
IMP's let you take advantage of the smallest and most marginal placements. Nut heads are made of brass, allowing them to bite into small placements but making them strong enough to resist pulling through. These are soldered directly on to wires, allowing a thicker wire to be used and increasing the strength of the IMP. The swage on the wire is color coded for quick size selection and allows one side of the wire to slide, letting the IMP self-equalize when loaded and increasing placement security.IMP's are invaluable for those pushing into harder grades and need to take advantage of all protection options.
As climbs become harder, the need to make the most of all available protection increases. Micro protection lets you protect cracks which normal sized pieces would not fit. Having these wires on your rack gives you more options.
The wires of IMPS and Brass Offsets are soldered directly into their heads. This allows a thicker wire to be used, increasing the strength rating of each nut.
The DMM protection range is color coded for quick and easy size selection. Colors are co-ordinated across passive and active protection, for quick selection of alternatives if your first choice doesn't fit.
Passive protection works by jamming in constrictions to prevent falls. It is suitable for use in all conditions. Unlike active protection such as cams, passive protection can be used in wet or icy cracks, where friction is reduced.
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|Weight (grams / ounces)||4 g / 0.14 oz|
|Size||1 micro nut (full strength)|
|Colors as a Nut Set||Single|
|Strength (kilonewtons)||4 kN|
|Range (inches / millimeters)|| 0.16 in - 0.22 in|
4.00 mm - 5.60 mm
|Material(s)|| Main Material: Silicon Bronze and Silver|
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-124 and EN-12270 standards for chocks (which includes nuts and hexes).