Instruction for using DMM Nut and warnings, maintenance and lifespan with instructional pictures.
Alloy Offset 8
This classic nut design used to be made by HB Climbing, but became unavailable when the company closed down in 2005. Demand for the nuts was still great so we decided to re-launch them.
The Offsets were originally designed by Hugh Banner, the climbing gear maestro who founded HB Climbing Equipment. Hugh was a real character and an extremely talented climber. He made numerous impressive first ascents during his lifetime, including classic test pieces such as The Mangler (E3 6a) on Helsby way back in the 1960s!
Hugh realised that conventional nuts don’t seat well in flared cracks, so he made one that did, and this is it. Well, almost. We updated the design by dropping the wire into a recess with a full radius to keep it protected and give extra strength. We also reduced the weight with lightening holes on the two larger sizes.
On slightly flared placements nothing fits like an Offset. Get a set as a back up for your Wallnuts and prepare to be converted.
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For aid climbing these nuts are practically a must. If you are a cam-placing junkie and rarely use nuts then you will probably enjoy these nuts more than others due to their ability to excel when cams won't come close.
Anyway, as I mentioned they come in a set of 5 (smaller offset nuts are available in brass much like the original RP’s), each is rated to 12 kN, they range in size from 12 to 23mm (size 7 to 11), colour coded, are not inexpensive (about $16 ea.) and have a bit of a gap between sizes (I infill this gap with a half dozen of my regular nuts BD nuts) though they can be rotated to make intermediate sizes) but WOW do these things work! Any kind of flaring or pod like crack as well as many shallow cracks (like the alligator cracking in the Red Rocks varnish that tend to be both shallow and pod like) in the sandstone and these things just slotted in! They quickly became my go-to for the rest of the trip. When I got home to Canmore I found that the limestone and quartzite there liked to eat these nuts just as much. Any placement where the crack edges are a little funky and a regular nut wouldn’t quite seat properly and one of these DMM Offset nuts would just slot in, Bomber: clip and forget.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-124 and EN-12270 standards for chocks (which includes nuts and hexes).