Instruction for using DMM Nut and warnings, maintenance and lifespan with instructional pictures.
Alloy Offset 8
Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season crack protection.
Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. Use in combination with normal nuts to find security in almost any crack.
Passive protection can be placed either side or face on, doubling the number of cracks any single piece can protect.
Wallnuts and Offsets have a groove machined into their faces, allowing them to sit better in irregular placements and on highly featured rock. This makes them more versatile across different rock types.
The DMM protection range is color coded for quick and easy size selection. Colors are co-ordinated across passive and active protection, for quick selection of alternatives if your first choice doesn’t fit.
Passive protection works by jamming in constrictions to prevent falls. It is suitable for use in all conditions. Unlike active protection such as cams, passive protection can be used in wet or icy cracks, where friction is reduced.
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Bottom line is that my offset nuts are the number one piece that I place early and then miss later on in the route--they fit easily into a shocking number of cracks, seat and conform to the rock (the alloy is softer than standard aluminum nuts), and usually feel more secure than other standard nuts.
For aid climbing these nuts are practically a must. If you are a cam-placing junkie and rarely use nuts then you will probably enjoy these nuts more than others due to their ability to excel when cams won't come close.
Anyway, as I mentioned they come in a set of 5 (smaller offset nuts are available in brass much like the original RP’s), each is rated to 12 kN, they range in size from 12 to 23mm (size 7 to 11), colour coded, are not inexpensive (about $16 ea.) and have a bit of a gap between sizes (I infill this gap with a half dozen of my regular nuts BD nuts) though they can be rotated to make intermediate sizes) but WOW do these things work! Any kind of flaring or pod like crack as well as many shallow cracks (like the alligator cracking in the Red Rocks varnish that tend to be both shallow and pod like) in the sandstone and these things just slotted in! They quickly became my go-to for the rest of the trip. When I got home to Canmore I found that the limestone and quartzite there liked to eat these nuts just as much. Any placement where the crack edges are a little funky and a regular nut wouldn’t quite seat properly and one of these DMM Offset nuts would just slot in, Bomber: clip and forget.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-124 and EN-12270 standards for chocks (which includes nuts and hexes).