A pictoral representation of UIAA-105 and EN-12277 standards for harnesses.
The Xenos is technically retired but it's still sold online.The Xenos is no longer produced by Black Diamond. We're showing it as "available" on WeighMyRack because you can still find it at trustworthy online retailers.
From scrappy mixed caves to perfect blue water ice to imposing alpine faces, winter climbing can encompass a multitude of objectives. Luckily, one harness can handle them all—the Black Diamond Xenos. Built with our Kinetic Core Construction™ and a water-shedding shell material, the Xenos provides unparalleled performance on the wettest, coldest days of the winter. Pre-threaded Forged Speed Adjust buckles on the waistbelt and leg loops easily accommodate changing layers, and four gear loops and six Ice Clipper slots secure all the necessary winter protection.
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In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
If there are differences in weight (due to multiple sizes or optional accessories) we'll list them here.
The default weight is the middle-most size, often this is size M.
| 398 g|
M : 398 g / 14 oz
BD doesn't provide the weights for other sizes so we're working on gathering this info by hand, stay tuned!
|Sizes||XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL|
Number of Gear Loops
Gear loops are used to hold gear (quickdraws, cams, etc) onto your harness. 4 gear loops is most common.
0 - 1 Gear Loops
Most often on full body harnesses or guide/gym style harnesses.
2-3 Gear Loops
Mostly found on lighter harnesses made for [ski] mountaineering or high-end sport climbing where weight is a high priority.
4 - 5 Gear Loops
The standard/most common number for climbing harnesses. Perfect for sport and trad.
More Than 6 Gear Loops
Designed for long multi-pitch and big wall climbing, found on harnesses made to hold the maximum amount of gear.
Occasionally, the number of gear loops will change on a harness model depending on the size. There could be 7 gear loops for the med/large but only 5 gear loops for the xsmall/small. In this case we list the highest number for the filters, and then write an explanation on the product page like, “Size S/XS can only fit 5 gear loops.”
|5 Gear loops|
|Ice Clip Slots|
Ice Clip Slot
Ice clipper slots are made to fit a carabiner that holds ice screws. These slots are generally only used by ice climbers but there is no disadvantage to having them on your harness.
Less than 40% of harnesses will have ice clipper slots. And those harnesses will usually have 2 or 4 slots, often located next to, or between, the gear loops.
|Belay / Tie-In||One Loop|
|Waist Buckle Type||Quick Adjust|
|Leg Buckle Type||Quick Adjust|
Trad climbers often look for a haul loop as they're intended to haul a rope (second line) or pack (while you climb the chimney).
A haul loop can also hold shoes or other accessories. Although not the intended use, it is also commonly used to hold a chalk bag.
|Size Chart|| |
S (will fit the upper range of XS)
The Xenos holds up well to abuse with a hydrophobic shell material that keeps it from freezing stiff on wet-and-wild climbs. During a series of freezing, wet-ice days, I forgot to unpack and dry my gear one night. The next day the Xenos was one of the only items not frozen into uselessness by the time we hiked to the day's first pitch. The harness is also foldable and light, while retaining structure—all features I appreciate. While there are drawbacks to the design, I've often used the Xenos over the years for both guiding and personal use.
Pros: Durable, packable, hydrophobic, makes ice climbing and leading ice easier and, thus, safer...something we all appreciate. Can be used year-round as a quiver-of-one harness.
Cons: Weird sizing/design puts the Ice Clipper slots in places that don't work well for me. Would like to see new ideas to address this issue. Buckles can be difficult to manipulate with gloves on.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.