A pictoral representation of UIAA-105 and EN-12277 standards for harnesses.
The Siren is technically retired but it's still sold online.The Siren is no longer produced by Black Diamond. We're showing it as "available" on WeighMyRack because you can still find it at trustworthy online retailers.
Designed for sport climbing or going light on long routes, the Black Diamond Women's Siren Harness expertly balances comfort and breathability thanks to our Dual Core XP Construction. The women's-specific Dual Core waistbelt (with Speed adjust) uses two thin bands of webbing and 3D mesh paneling to distribute the load and keep you comfortable, while the leg loops are constructed with a single strand of high-tensile nylon for added support and comfort while hanging in the harness. We also added our innovative trakFIT leg loop adjustment system for quick and easy fitting, Mondo gear loops for increased racking space and Bombshell abrasion patches for unparalleled durability (20 times more durable than standard nylon fabric), season after season.
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In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
If there are differences in weight (due to multiple sizes or optional accessories) we'll list them here.
The default weight is the middle-most size, often this is size M.
| 330 g|
M : 330 g / 11 oz
BD doesn't provide the weights for other sizes so we're working on gathering this info by hand, stay tuned!
|Sizes||XS, S, M, L, XL|
Number of Gear Loops
Gear loops are used to hold gear (quickdraws, cams, etc) onto your harness. 4 gear loops is most common.
0 - 1 Gear Loops
Most often on full body harnesses or guide/gym style harnesses.
2-3 Gear Loops
Mostly found on lighter harnesses made for [ski] mountaineering or high-end sport climbing where weight is a high priority.
4 - 5 Gear Loops
The standard/most common number for climbing harnesses. Perfect for sport and trad.
More Than 6 Gear Loops
Designed for long multi-pitch and big wall climbing, found on harnesses made to hold the maximum amount of gear.
Occasionally, the number of gear loops will change on a harness model depending on the size. There could be 7 gear loops for the med/large but only 5 gear loops for the xsmall/small. In this case we list the highest number for the filters, and then write an explanation on the product page like, “Size S/XS can only fit 5 gear loops.”
|4 Gear loops|
|Ice Clip Slots|
Ice Clip Slot
Ice clipper slots are made to fit a carabiner that holds ice screws. These slots are generally only used by ice climbers but there is no disadvantage to having them on your harness.
Less than 40% of harnesses will have ice clipper slots. And those harnesses will usually have 2 or 4 slots, often located next to, or between, the gear loops.
|Belay / Tie-In||One Loop|
|Waist Buckle Type||Quick Adjust|
|Leg Buckle Type||Quick Adjust|
Trad climbers often look for a haul loop as they're intended to haul a rope (second line) or pack (while you climb the chimney).
A haul loop can also hold shoes or other accessories. Although not the intended use, it is also commonly used to hold a chalk bag.
|Size Chart|| |
No voice explanation but the video highlights the key features of Flight and Siren Harness.
We have a few mixed feelings about this harness. While it is light and mobile, and great for steep sport climbing, it is not very comfortable to hang in, and truth be told, sport climbers spend a lot of time in their harnesses either working a route or belaying someone who is. If we could be sure that you'd never have to hang in this harness for more than a minute, we'd recommend the Siren in a heartbeat, but the reality is a little different, and we think a harness like the Camp Supernova with a little more padding and a lot more comfort is probably a better bet.
By a curious coincidence, the weekend I tested this harness, I led my hardest route, which was five grades (truly, five) harder than my previous toughest lead. We are still investigating this phenomenon, and in the meantime I am eluding the editors’ attempts to confiscate the harness – their hopes being to enhance their own rock powers with what, it turns out, may be one of the best sport-climbing harnesses out there.
It’s also pretty good looking, it comes in two colours, mine is in Daiquiri (green with electric blue belay loop) but it also comes in Aruba Fire (that’s turquoise and red). I’ll definitely be taking it on some trips this year to give it a really good run for its money, which by the by isn’t all that much. For around £60.00 you can’t really argue. It’s a well thought out piece of equipment which doesn’t ask for your life savings in return, and I’m happy to give it a big thumbs up.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.