A pictoral representation of UIAA-105 and EN-12277 standards for harnesses.
Our most versatile all-purpose harness, the Black Diamond Momentum DS harness features maximum adjustability and range of fit for entry-level use. Dual Speed Adjust buckles on both the waistbelt and leg loops allow for an incredible range of adjustment for multi-season and multi-climber use, while the tall, bullhorn-shaped waistbelt improves comfort during long belays.
When you click a link below and then checkout online, no matter what you buy (climbing gear or not), we get a small commission that helps us keep this site up-to-date. Thanks!
In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
If there are differences in weight (due to multiple sizes or optional accessories) we'll list them here.
The default weight is the middle-most size, often this is size M.
| 400 g|
M : 400 g / 14 oz
BD doesn't provide the weights for other sizes so we're working on gathering this info by hand, stay tuned!
|Sizes||XXS, XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL|
Number of Gear Loops
Gear loops are used to hold gear (quickdraws, cams, etc) onto your harness. 4 gear loops is most common.
0 - 1 Gear Loops
Most often on full body harnesses or guide/gym style harnesses.
2-3 Gear Loops
Mostly found on lighter harnesses made for [ski] mountaineering or high-end sport climbing where weight is a high priority.
4 - 5 Gear Loops
The standard/most common number for climbing harnesses. Perfect for sport and trad.
More Than 6 Gear Loops
Designed for long multi-pitch and big wall climbing, found on harnesses made to hold the maximum amount of gear.
Occasionally, the number of gear loops will change on a harness model depending on the size. There could be 7 gear loops for the med/large but only 5 gear loops for the xsmall/small. In this case we list the highest number for the filters, and then write an explanation on the product page like, “Size S/XS can only fit 5 gear loops.”
|4 Gear loops|
|Ice Clip Slots|
Ice Clip Slot
Ice clipper slots are made to fit a carabiner that holds ice screws. These slots are generally only used by ice climbers but there is no disadvantage to having them on your harness.
Less than 40% of harnesses will have ice clipper slots. And those harnesses will usually have 2 or 4 slots, often located next to, or between, the gear loops.
|Belay / Tie-In||One Loop|
|Waist Buckle Type||Quick Adjust|
|Leg Buckle Type||Quick Adjust|
Trad climbers often look for a haul loop as they're intended to haul a rope (second line) or pack (while you climb the chimney).
A haul loop can also hold shoes or other accessories. Although not the intended use, it is also commonly used to hold a chalk bag.
|Size Chart|| |
Waist: 56-78 cm / 22-31 in
Waist: 69-89 cm / 26-35 in
L-XL (will fit the lower range of XXL)
Waist: 76-107 cm / 30-42 in
Introducing 2015 new harnesses.
This video explains all the features and benefits of Momentum and Primrose Harnesses.
This is a great all-around harness to use when teaching because it will fit a wide variety of students. The small size fits most kids and adults; the bigger size fits most medium to large adults. To make things even easier, Black Diamond offer the Momentum DS Package that comes with everything you need to get started climbing: belay device, carabiner, and chalk bag.
Black Diamond bills the Momentum 3S as an entry-level four-season harness, but unless you are sport climbing at the highest level where the difference of a few ounces might matter to your psyche and self worth, this 13.4-ounce harness is good for anyone, doing anything. Ice climbing and hard mixed climbing being the exceptions, since the Momentum 3S lacks ice-clipper tabs or a place to attach them.
Performance: For trad routes in Joshua Tree, California, and sport missions in Maple Canyon and American Fork, Utah, this addition to the Momentum lineup has proven to be a comfortable and versatile harness with a few upgrades. Black Diamond redesigned the Speed Adjust buckles—which had little issues with slipping in prior testing—by shrinking the space for the webbing to pass through just enough so that the buckles bite firmly without being difficult to tighten and loosen. “I was impressed with the durability,” one western states tester said. “After more than six months of testing, including some burl-fest chimneys, it showed no signs of wear.” Open-hook seat attachments made it easy to drop trou when nature called, and full waist and leg adjustability was ideal for conditions and climbing from hot to cold. “Sport, gym, or trad, the Momentum 3S has
been pure joy thanks to the comfortable webbing and foam insert construction,” one tester said. “Not to mention it’s a steal at $60.” Four pressure-molded gear loops were big enough for every route that wasn’t a big wall, but it maintains an airy weight at 13 oz., so it’s packable and doesn’t add bulk to any gear-intensive backcountry pursuits.
Cons: Sizing seemed small on this model (and other Black Diamond models), so try on before buying or size up with plans to cinch down. Word of caution for short people: Gear loops hang draws and other pro extra-low.
Conclusion: Full adjustability and do-everything design make this nearly perfect for everything on rock. It’s also the least expensive harness in the review, and one of the cheapest on the market.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.