A pictoral representation of UIAA-105 and EN-12277 standards for harnesses.
An all-new, women's-specific version of our standard-setting Chaos, the Black Diamond Ethos harness is a super-comfortable, super-durable trad climbing harness ideal for everything from cragging at Index to going big in Patagonia. The Ethos features a women's-specific bullhorn-shaped waistbelt built with our Kinetic Core Construction, which uses a thin layer of Vectran fibers in place of traditional webbing to evenly distribute weight across the waist and legs. Four pressure-molded gear loops hold all your cams, slings and on-route essentials, and the front two loops are oversized for optimized racking. A Forged Speed Adjust buckle makes for easy on and off, while the rear 12kN-rated haul loop secures your tag line.
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In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
If there are differences in weight (due to multiple sizes or optional accessories) we'll list them here.
The default weight is the middle-most size, often this is size M.
| 360 g|
M : 360 g / 12.5 oz
BD doesn't provide the weights for other sizes so we're working on gathering this info by hand, stay tuned!
|Sizes||XS, S, M, L, XL|
Number of Gear Loops
Gear loops are used to hold gear (quickdraws, cams, etc) onto your harness. 4 gear loops is most common.
0 - 1 Gear Loops
Most often on full body harnesses or guide/gym style harnesses.
2-3 Gear Loops
Mostly found on lighter harnesses made for [ski] mountaineering or high-end sport climbing where weight is a high priority.
4 - 5 Gear Loops
The standard/most common number for climbing harnesses. Perfect for sport and trad.
More Than 6 Gear Loops
Designed for long multi-pitch and big wall climbing, found on harnesses made to hold the maximum amount of gear.
Occasionally, the number of gear loops will change on a harness model depending on the size. There could be 7 gear loops for the med/large but only 5 gear loops for the xsmall/small. In this case we list the highest number for the filters, and then write an explanation on the product page like, “Size S/XS can only fit 5 gear loops.”
|4 Gear loops|
|Ice Clip Slots|
Ice Clip Slot
Ice clipper slots are made to fit a carabiner that holds ice screws. These slots are generally only used by ice climbers but there is no disadvantage to having them on your harness.
Less than 40% of harnesses will have ice clipper slots. And those harnesses will usually have 2 or 4 slots, often located next to, or between, the gear loops.
|Belay / Tie-In||One Loop|
|Waist Buckle Type||Quick Adjust|
|Leg Buckle Type||None (it stretches)|
Trad climbers often look for a haul loop as they're intended to haul a rope (second line) or pack (while you climb the chimney).
A haul loop can also hold shoes or other accessories. Although not the intended use, it is also commonly used to hold a chalk bag.
|Size Chart|| |
This video explains all the design features of Chaos Harness and Ethos Women's Harness.
The Ethos is a lightweight, comfortable, and durable harness that excels at trad and sport climbing. Its versatility and high quality construction make it a good choice for advanced and expert climbers, as well as professionals who spend a great deal of time in their harness.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.