A pictoral representation of UIAA-105 and EN-12277 standards for harnesses.
From the hard single-pitch splitters of Indian Creek to the soaring alpine walls of the Charakusa Valley, the Black Diamond Chaos harness is a highly durable, premium trad climbing harness that's built for long routes and serious abuse. Equally suited to cragging sessions and multi-pitch free climbs, the Chaos features Kinetic Core Construction, which uses a thin layer of Vectran fibers in place of traditional webbing to evenly distribute weight across the waist and legs. Four pressure-molded gear loops hold cams, slings and on-route essentials, and the front two loops are oversized for optimized racking. A Forged Speed Adjust buckle makes for easy on and off, while the rear 12 kN-rated haul loop secures your tag line.
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In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
If there are differences in weight (due to multiple sizes or optional accessories) we'll list them here.
The default weight is the middle-most size, often this is size M.
| 360 g|
M : 360 g / 12.5 oz
BD doesn't provide the weights for other sizes so we're working on gathering this info by hand, stay tuned!
|Sizes||XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL|
Number of Gear Loops
Gear loops are used to hold gear (quickdraws, cams, etc) onto your harness. 4 gear loops is most common.
0 - 1 Gear Loops
Most often on full body harnesses or guide/gym style harnesses.
2-3 Gear Loops
Mostly found on lighter harnesses made for [ski] mountaineering or high-end sport climbing where weight is a high priority.
4 - 5 Gear Loops
The standard/most common number for climbing harnesses. Perfect for sport and trad.
More Than 6 Gear Loops
Designed for long multi-pitch and big wall climbing, found on harnesses made to hold the maximum amount of gear.
Occasionally, the number of gear loops will change on a harness model depending on the size. There could be 7 gear loops for the med/large but only 5 gear loops for the xsmall/small. In this case we list the highest number for the filters, and then write an explanation on the product page like, “Size S/XS can only fit 5 gear loops.”
|4 Gear loops|
|Ice Clip Slots|
Ice Clip Slot
Ice clipper slots are made to fit a carabiner that holds ice screws. These slots are generally only used by ice climbers but there is no disadvantage to having them on your harness.
Less than 40% of harnesses will have ice clipper slots. And those harnesses will usually have 2 or 4 slots, often located next to, or between, the gear loops.
|Belay / Tie-In||One Loop|
|Waist Buckle Type||Quick Adjust|
|Leg Buckle Type||None (it stretches)|
Trad climbers often look for a haul loop as they're intended to haul a rope (second line) or pack (while you climb the chimney).
A haul loop can also hold shoes or other accessories. Although not the intended use, it is also commonly used to hold a chalk bag.
|Size Chart|| |
S (will fit the upper range of XS)
This video explains all the design features of Chaos Harness and Ethos Women's Harness.
The Black Diamond Chaos is a top tier product that has a great mix of features, mobility, and comfort. Is a true all-around rock climbing harness. It wasn't as comfortable as some models we tested, but it is quite light and feels great. If it fits you well, you'll probably love this harness for years. We are happy to give the Black Diamond Chaos our Top Pick award because it is the best trad climbing harness we reviewed.
In the end the R320 and Chaos have different features and benefits. The most important thing with a harness is fit and the ratio of waist band to leg loop size varies between these harnesses. I have been happy wearing both harnesses on all day climbs, which in my mind puts them to the comfort test. Both sets of gear loops have disadvantages and I can hope that the next generation will show some improvements. In terms of durability, I have been really impressed with the R320 since it has shown less wear than the Chaos. Only time will tell if they will continue to age at the same rate.
This was ultimately a small gripe that never detracted from how well the harness performed. I was always comfortable holding my partner’s full weight while belaying, or hangdogging my project. Even on hot days the harness never felt too sweaty. Nothing chaffed. I loved the shape and position of the four gear loops and, best of all, after nearly eight months of hard abuse, the belay loop and tie-in points still look new—which has definitely not been my experience with many lightweight harnesses on today’s market.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.