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Totem Cam 0.50

Totem Cam 0.50

Rating

My vote: None ( 5.9 avg )

Description

The new patented Direct Loading Camming Device system (US patent 7,014,156) applies a perfectly equalized load directly onto each lobe, eliminating the risk of inactive lobes and therefore any outbalanced forces that might compromise cam placement stability. Where rock contact with four cam lobes is not possible, Totem Cam still offers the option to load just two lobes.

Totem Cam is Quality Made. We manufacture the main components and we undertake the entire assembly process. Eight years of product development have provided us with the technical skills to ensure a quality job. Totem Cam is CE certified by Cete Apave Sudeurope (Notified body number 0082).

• Well-sized cam heads with the narrowest head width for the smallest sizes.
• Very flexible cam body.
• Easy handling even with hand gloves.
• Loadable on just two lobes.
• Great holding power. Comparing with a regular Spring Loaded Camming Device system (system used by most other brands),
Totem Cam is like a regular SLCD with approximately 13 degree cam angle combined with hard 7075-T6 aluminum lobes.
• Less walking due to strong springs and good flexibility.
• Good expansion range (1.64:1)
• Light and durable.
• Diagonal micro-teeth on the cam lobes’ friction surface provide an additional grip and do not affect the logarithmic shape, as
where standard steep straight teeth are used, so constant holding power and cam placement setting are not compromised.
• Trigger wire ropes directly attached to cam lobes. Strong and durable.

Retail price

US$ 94.95

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Weight (g / oz)

Weight (g / oz)

In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

69.0 g / 2.43 oz
Cam Head 4 lobes, single axle
Offset No offset
Stem Flexible no stem
Sling ­­­(double sling loop)
Camming Angle 13.00° (purposefully not a consistent cam angle)
Active Strength 6 kN
­
Cam Range (mm / in)

Cam Range (mm / in)

In millimeters and inches, the maximum dimensions of the cam lobes when shut tight and fully extended. Since the "usable" range is so debatable, all manufacturers now list the full dimensions to avoid selling themselves short.

For offset cams, we'll list the max dimensions possible and then afterwards list each of lobe dimensions.

11.7 - 18.9 mm  (0.46 - 0.74 in) ­
Materials Main Material: 7075-T6 aluminum
­
Certification CE
AVG RATING
6
( 6 avg )
Rating
6
( 6 avg )

The cam that your girlfriend told you not to worry about

Pros
Changed the whole game
110% bomber in placements that you would have never even dreamed about being bomber
Cons
It will make you look at your other tips sized cams with scorn
You once loved those cams, but it will never be the same again.
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

A black totem is king of tips sized placements. Dominates the flared placement game like Gretzky. Climbs that had turned your leg into a sewing machine will feel now feel like a breeze.

Take those whips in comfort... you deserve it. 

A black totem is king of tips sized placements. Dominates the flared placement game like Gretzky. Climbs that had turned your leg into a sewing machine will feel now feel like a breeze.

Take those whips in comfort... you deserve it. 

Rating
6
( 6 avg )

Fits everywhere and feels bomber

Pros
Secure placements
Quite lightweight
Works as offset
Sticky metal
Cons
Will possible get worn out before a camalots, due to all the small wires, and soft metal in the cams, but not certain
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

Fits in wierd offset slots. Worked great for aiding pin scars in Yosemite where camalots did not have a chance. Feels very secure, and the metal bites really well in the rock.

Fits in wierd offset slots. Worked great for aiding pin scars in Yosemite where camalots did not have a chance. Feels very secure, and the metal bites really well in the rock.

Rating
6
( 6 avg )

Mother of micros

Pros
Lightweight
Dual stem
Can load sets of loves independently
Narrow head width
Cons
Slightly bulky
Not as small as other micro cams
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

Totems are an incredible piece of innovation. They changed the aid and free climbing game. A totem placement definitely increases my confidence on a trade route. I've whipped onna bunch of different sizes and they hold well.

The narrow head is amazing for pin scars and turns otherwise finicky placements into bomber plug and play cracks. The hype is real.

Black Sheep Adventure Sports logo no rating given just a review

Totem Cams are a very specialized piece of equipment. Due the unique holding power and double stem they are ideal for traditional climbers who are looking for that piece they can rely on in a “not so good placement”. I purchased these cams when I was working a project that needed an off-set placement. I’m very happy I went with Totems over standard off-set cams because they are way more versatile and work just as good if not better.

UK Climbing Gear Review no rating given just a review

All in all the Black and Orange Totems are excellent additions to the Totem range. The Black Totem is a personal favourite and I almost always carry it due to its size. The Orange Totem is slightly held back by the non-conventional stem which makes it harder to place, although it still has a place on your rack when climbing rock without much friction or if you need the narrow head width.

Outdoor Gear Lab Gear Review rating 4.9/5

The main reason to get this cam is it will fit in awkward pods that you often encounter on big walls. You can also load the cams with only two lobes contacting the rock. This fact, coupled with their increased holding power in flaring placements, makes them an ideal specialty aid piece.

We appreciated the increased range that these cams have; although not the best range we tested, it's pretty good.

The thing that we liked most about these is the innovative thinking that went into the design. Totem Cams make a complete departure from traditional cam design and create something that is new, exciting, and functional.

Strength Test of Totem and Basic Cam
Cleaning a Totem Cam

The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.

An order form to get a re-sling, have the trigger wire ropes replaced, or springs replaced for any of Totems cams.

Totem clearly explains how to load two and three lobes and still have a solid placement using Totem Cams.

Actually well-done instructions explaining (words and pictures) where Totem Cams can be used and how to use them.