Why the new Alien Lite is better than old Alien.
Alien EVO Lite Double Sling Grey
When Dave Waggoner introduced his Alien cams to climbing, the art of technical placements changed. Alien cams are the best thin crack protection. The Alien hybrid units excel in pin scars and technical placements. Dave's design has been and will be copied in the future but so far this original concept stands alone.
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|Weight (g / oz)|
Weight (g / oz)
In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
|59.0 g / 2.10 oz|
|Cam Head||4 lobes, single axle|
|Stem||Flexible single stem|
|Sling||Dyneema (double loop)|
|Active Strength|| 10 kN|
|Cam Range (mm / in)|
Cam Range (mm / in)
In millimeters and inches, the maximum dimensions of the cam lobes when shut tight and fully extended. Since the "usable" range is so debatable, all manufacturers now list the full dimensions to avoid confusion.
If a manufacturer lists the usable range, we'll include it here as well (this is now very rare).
| Total dimensions|
17.0 mm x 30.0 mm / 0.68 in x 1.20 in
|Materials||Wire Material: 5/32" 7x19 Stainless|
Kevin Daniels describes cleaning and maintenance process of Alien Lite cam.
Kevin Daniels talks about Fixe and the new Alien Lite cam.
Kevin Daniels talks about new Alien Lite cams, describes all the updates.
After climbing with the new Alien cams for about a month now i'm sold. They are a definite improvement on the old Aliens and a real asset on the wall.
I think climbers will appreciate the improvements of the new Aliens and find them to be a good value for such a technically advanced piece of pro. The LITE versions cost $66 each or $320 for a set of 5 and the LITE Double Sling versions are $2 more and $330 for a set of 5. At this price, they are over $10 less than Black Diamond X4s although a little pricier than the $59.95 Metolius Master Cams. I still think durability could be an issue, though after several months I haven’t had any problems. This review will be updated if I find that something comes up as I continue to use these cams. Overall, I’m excited for the update to a long beloved piece of my trad rack.
Size and weight chart to compare.
Pictoral instructions for using Fixe Alien Lite cam correctly and safely.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-125 and EN-12276 standards for frictional anchors (which includes SLCD's [cams] and Ballnuts).