Collecting every piece of gear takes a little time.
We think it's worth the wait.

Nice choice!
Give us a moment to collect those options for you.

Username

av8orariel

Reviews

Elia 2015

Petzl
Petzl Elia
5.16

Mine is purple too!

Pros
fit
look
Cons
side size adjusters

I just changed over from an Elios and find the fit of this helmet to be MUCH better, although I do prefer the adjuster knob on the back of the Elios. No comments yet on durability or feel in different conditions -- will have to update the review over the seasons. Also, I feel more feminine in this helmet. Not too much, I'm climbing after all, but the right amount. :)

Elios

Petzl
Petzl Elios Helmet
3.48

Not for Goldilocks

Pros
price
durability
simple adjustment knob
Cons
fit

Ok, blondes can wear this fine, but maybe not picky people. I wore this helmet for 5 years rockclimbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, and even occasionally backcountry skiing (and once on a bike, not recommended!). It kept my noggin safe from many many scrapes, tossed ropes and falling rock and debris, but never was the most comfortable. I have a small head and thus bought the smaller size (size 1?), forgetting to leave room for a hat. The larger size was so big I couldn't get it to tighten small enough. If the chin strap on the smaller size had been a wee bit longer it would have made all the difference, but alas, after much discussion with the manufacturer, there was no way to fix it. I've never had a problem shoving a ponytail in the Elios, but I recently upgraded to an Elia. It is much more comfortable, although I prefer the adjuster knob on the Elios. Good weight for durability.

Posiwire 18cm

Black Diamond
Black Diamond Posiwire
4.32

Only What you need, not what you don't

Pros
Straightjacket insertm long flexible dogbone

This is the first piece of "lead" gear I ever bought, and its worked out quite well. The rubber insert holds the biner position well for smooth clipping and both sides open and close smoothly. I also like the piece of mind that the "no chatter" wire gate provides. Good mid-weight draw. I have 10 "normal" length and two longer ones to use as anchors and find myself frequently taking them with on alpine routes. I find that these draws are easier to work with on routes than my friends' shorter and/or wider dogbone draws.

ATC Guide 2018

Black Diamond
Black Diamond ATC Guide Green
5.16

Just what the belayer asked for

Pros
teeth
extra loops
light weight
Cons
wear

This is my 3rd buddy from the ATC family. Exactly what I need for multipitch climbing, and everyday sport. Teeth hold the rope well, although appear to be starting to wear a bit smooth. Heavy use for two seasons. Will take it into a shop to have checked out. Grip still makes for a nice secure rappel.

ATC XP 2011

Black Diamond
Black Diamond ATC XP Full View
4.32

Workhorse

Pros
friction
Cons
not a guide

This was the second ATC I bought, and it served me well for many years until I got into multipitch and sprung for a Guide. Still my gym belay device. Friction gives you a lot more control. Just right if setting up an auto-lock or multi-belay isn't needed.

ATC

Black Diamond
Black Diamond ATC
3.48

Beginners Only

Pros
simple
Cons
no teeth

I belayed on this for years with no problem. Until there was one. He was about 75 pounds heavier than me, and while he wasn't falling, he wasn't stopped either. Without teeth I was only able to perform a slow, controlled descent (~2ft/min). Safe, but no longer good enough for my needs. It works, but I don't recommend teeth-less ATCs to friends anymore. I still keep mine as a spare. Better than no device!

Pro Key with Leash

Wild Country
Wild Country Pro Key with Leash
4.32

Clutz-proof, ish

Pros
leash!
Cons
heavyish
catches in pack

This had all the features I was looking for -- slim and strong, pounding end, and attached to my harness. I often let it hang behind me if I'm doing a lot of cleaning, and have never had a problem with it up on the rock. And I'll always know its there.

Too bad its not made of air, but that's typical of full-featured and durable.

5.16

Great for Leftists

Pros
true one handed auto-locker
large for great rope handling
simple safety check
Cons
heavy

This biner is great for those of all political affiliations, but amazing for Left-handers! As a left handed belayer I am able to operate (lock and unlock) easily with either hand using the "push in and twist" instead of the "down and twist" of most autolockers. I've used this as my main belay biner for years and it still auto-locks smoothly. The "green for go" ball is also a good visual check of system safety.