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Petzl Nomic Ice Tool
  • Petzl Nomic Ice Tool
  • Petzl Nomic handle

Nomic 2017

Rating

My vote: None ( 5.6 avg )

Description

The NOMIC ice axe allows the entire rock climbing repertoire to be transferred to ice. Thanks to its adjustable ergonomic handle, it offers multiple grip modes and limits the risk of snagging when switching hands. The ICE pick allows easy penetration in any type of ice, and pulls out easily. The modular head has two removable pick weights to balance the axe and propel it into the ice with an exceptional swing. The NOMIC ice axe can also be equipped with a hammer for placing pitons.

Ergonomic over-molded handle offers multiple grip options. Handle length is adjustable to fit different hand and glove sizes.
Specific shape of the shaft and the handle limit the risk of pick shift when switching hands.

Fully modular head for adapting the ice axe to the activity and context:
- equipped with MASSELOTTES pick weights, the NOMIC ensures precise, efficient purchase in the ice
- without the MASSELOTTES pick weights, the NOMIC becomes considerably lighter for dry tooling
- equipped with a MARTEAU (optional), the NOMIC can be used to place pitons
Interchangeable ICE pick is tapered at the tip (3 mm) for easy penetration, even in cold ice. Its shape allows stable hooking on both ice and rock.
GRIPTAPE on the upper handle provides better grip and thermal insulation.
Serrated blade under the GRIPREST for better hold coming out of steep sections in hard snow or ice.

Retail price

US$ 299.95
Weight (g / oz)

Weight (g / oz)

In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

The weight is the packaged weight. If there are differences in weight (due to optional accessories) we'll note them here.

605 g / 21.34 oz­
Length (cm) 50 cm
Head Details No adze or hammer­
2 Screw adjustment
Ice Rating Pick: T / Type 2
Shaft: T / Type 2
Picks Included with the tool:
Ice
Other Picks Available:
Dry
Pur'Ice 2017
Pommel & Grip

Pommel & Grip

Upper Pommel

Fixed: An upper pommel that is fixed in place (it cannot move up/down the shaft nor can it be taken off).

Adjustable: An upper pommel that can move up and down the shaft.

Removable & Adjustable: An upper pommel that is completely removable and also adjustable.

Removeable: An upper pommel that is either on or off (it cannot move up/down the shaft).

None: If there is no upper pommel that comes standard (there may or may not be options to buy separately).

Lower Pommel

Fixed: A lower pommel that is fixed in place (the angle cannot be changed nor can it be taken off).

Adjustable: A lower pommel that can change angle or location on the tool.

Removable: When the lower pommel can be removed but not adjusted.

None: If there is no lower pommel that comes standard (there may or may not be options to buy separately).

Upper Pommel: Fixed
Lower Pommel: Adjustable
Grip Size: Adjustable
Materials Pick: Steel
Head: Steel
Shaft: Aluminum
Grip: Molded Rubber
Certification

Certifications

The main climbing gear certifications are CE and UIAA--and normally the UIAA creates the rules that the CE body also supports. When possible, we try to list all the certifications the product carries.

To sell a climbing product in Europe, the device must be CE certified. There are no official requirements to sell climbing gear in the US. The UIAA certification is a voluntary process.

Learn More

Rock and Ice Certifications Guide
CE, UIAA
Picks it comes with
Interchangeable Picks
Ice Tool Acces. Ref
AVG RATING
6
( 6 avg )
Rating
6
( 6 avg )

Stick with the classics

Pros
Good swing
Attachment point on handle for leashes/tethers
Very modular (different picks, weights, head attachments, adjustable grip)
Easy to find used
Cons
Not the best tool for plunging into snow
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

I've used these tools extensively for ice, mixed, and dry-tooling. There's a reason eveyrone uses these for vertical ice. The swing feels incredibly natural (especially with pur'ice picks, pick weights, and mini-hammers). They just sink into ice and feel incredibly solid.

They're very comfortable to hang on, and the upper pommel makes switching hands a breeze. If you venture out onto rock with these, they retain their amazing-ness. They don't start to falter until you get into seriously overhanging terrain (where something like the Ergonomic would probably be better suited). I use a pair of old beater ice picks that I've filed down for dry tooling and mixed climbing, and I've been able to push myself pretty far with those.

Finding used Nomics and parts is also incredibly easy, and most Petzl picks and accessories are backwards-compatible. Go to any gear swap at an ice festival, or online to Facebook marketplace/Mountain Project/Craigslist, and you'll be able to find people selling Nomics or accessories. Some third-party manufacturers also sell picks for Nomics (and other ice tools). The most well-known example is probably Krunokogi, but there are others. I expect to be able to use my 2017 Nomics for quite some time. If you want to only buy one set of tools, you should consider Nomics.

Chicks With Picks Gear Review no rating given just a review

There are so many ice climbing tools on the market and deciding on which one to buy is about as tough as choosing what dress to wear on Saturday night. The Nomic is the equivalent of that little black dress that is perfect for every occasion. Do yourself a favor and choose the one tool that does it all. I have a personal philosophy that if you’re going to buy something, buy the top of line and you won’t regret it. One swing of the Nomic and I promise you will have no regrets and that’s what life is all about.

Rock and Ice Gear Review rating 4/5

Since their introduction to the market roughly 10 years ago, leashless tools have revolutionized mixed climbing. “Matching” used to mean placing both picks on the same rock edge while trying to puzzle out a sequence. Now, you can match hands on either tool, greatly simplifying the whole climbing experience, as well as certain tasks like shaking out and placing gear. The new Petzl Nomic is the latest rendition of sans dragonne machines, and from what I’ve seen, one of the best.

Alpinist Gear Review rating 4/5

The Nomic is excellent on steep ice and in mixed terrain—no question—and I will continue to use it there. But, spike or no spike, it just isn't an all-around alpine tool (no matter what Ueli Steck says). The curved shaft, the steep pick and the offset handle mean that it can't perform well on ice that isn't steep. It is awkward to try to swing into grade-two ice. That offset handle combined with the protruding upper grip means the tool also won't plunge well into snow.

Petzl Ice Tools

Long but informative video, shows all the features of Quark, Nomic and Ergo ice tools.

Petzl Nomic Ice Tool

Head cam footage of climbing with Nomic ice tool.