Miura VS Men
Easy on and off convenience makes this sporty, high-end edging and smearing shoe a must for bouldering and technical climbing. We pulled key design elements from the Miura and incorporated them into this three strap hook and loop closure system. The one-piece leather upper has a synthetic lining to control stretch and is unlined under the foot to allow for excellent sensitivity on micro edges and smears. The Miura VS is built with the P3® platform for a continued down turn shape which makes it excellent for steep overhangs.
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|Weight|| 270 g|
Single : 270 g / 9.52 oz
European sizes 33-46, including half sizes.|
La Sportiva Shoes are built on European half sizes which are smaller increments than US half sizes.
|Best Use (Highest Performance)||
Sport / Face|
|Last Details|| Shape: Downturned (performance)|
Construction: Slip Lasted
Last : PD 75 This means the last has a pointed toe, it is downturned and has high asymmetry.
|Midsole Material||1.1 mm P3® with LaspoFlex|
|Sole Material||4.0 mm Vibram® XS Edge|
|Footbed Lining|| |
Dentex, unlined underfoot
Vibram® XS Edge
Watch climbing wearing Miura VS Shoe.
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Though the Miura VS is a great shoe, we'd look at the Solution, Futura or Shaman for performance and comfort if we were going to buy a shoe specifically for hard sport or bouldering. Like all things climbing, and in particular things that go on your feet, it has to work for you. In the pursuit for the perfect-for-you-fit, this pair is worthy of consideration.
I've climbed in the Miura VS' a lot now, both inside and out. I've found them ideal partners for pushing me to climb that little bit harder on Gower limestone, at home in Pembrokeshire and Carmarthenshire on sandstone/limestone; also down on Portland and in Costa Blanca. Nine months later, I'm still really enjoying them. They have worn in to match my foot shape, but are a long way off wearing out, so I feel starting out with sore feet has paid off in the long run. I've found shoes that are comfy straight out of the box are often too roomy after a couple of months. The uppers haven't gone baggy either, and the shoes are generally still in great shape.
This seems partly due to the durability of XS Edge rubber, partly due to La Sportiva's P3 midsole, (which is designed to 'leave the arched shape of the climbing shoe unaltered, without compromising original performance and push-power, even after years of hard use'), and partly due to the synthetic lining of the upper which has kept the leather from stretching out too much. Kev's only complaint was with the Velcro. He wore out the Velcro on his within a few months. I have to say the Velcro on mine has remained sticky as ever ... perhaps it's because I'm not as strong as Kev so don't rip them open with the same force.
Having used both lace up and VS models, I would favour the lace up for slab climbs, but would choose the VS for everything else. As a climber who does a bit of everything I found the VS a more versatile choice, mixing the specialist features of precise power on steep angles with better all round credentials than many other down turned shoes.
If your shoe quiver is in need of a technical face-climbing workhorse, I don’t know that you can do better than the Miura VS. The stiffness of the Velcro version, relative to the lace-up Miura, accentuates the Miura’s already well-known ability to edge and grab small features. People in the sport climbing camp (like me) won’t bat an eye at the loss of crack climbing prowess (since I never used them for cracks in the first place), and will applaud the edging improvements of the Miura VS. For those in the sized-up trad/crack climbing camp, well, stick with the Miura lace.
Recently, I took the shoes on their first route (Window Shopper, 5.11c, Pine Creek). They were, again, fantastic, if a bit painful still, for standing on small edges. I didn’t really feel like I could smear in them at all, but they compensated for that by allowing me to stand on micro-crystals. Now I’m even more excited to wear these on other routes, since I love the kind with technical footwork on very small holds.
After a full year of hard toeing, twisting and torquing, the Miura VS has suffered no dip in its performance—amazing unto itself—and it still excels on dime-edges, heel hooks (maybe the best?), and finger cracks. The shoe has stretched a bit, but not that much (not nearly as much as its older sister, the lace-up Miura tends to). This is due to Sportiva’s patented P3 platform that retains the shoe’s shape, and hence performance, over a long lifetime.
The streamlined Miura VS offers true high-end performance on a wide variety of terrain. The Velcro version shares the same asymmetrical, downturned last and pointed toe as the classic Miura, creating a shoe equally fluent on thin faces and wicked overhangs. The three Velcro closures were almost as effective at fine-tuning fit as laces, though one tester with wide feet commented that the middle strap wasn’t long enough for his liking. The Miura VS has a lined upper but no lining underfoot, which allowed for a sensitive feel with only moderate stretch (about a half-size). Testers commented on the stickiness of the Vibram XS Grip rubber.