A pictoral representation of UIAA-101 and EN-892 standards for ropes.
9/10mm Opposite Triaxiale 80m
Unique know-how defines this rope: 9/10mm variable diameter and TRIAXIALE technology!
Designed for two types of sport climbing: training sessions that require ultra-robust ropes, and performance sessions for which slim, fluid ropes are ideal.
The OPPOSITE TRX 9/10 is both these ropes in one! Single rope. TRIAXIALE® braided core.
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|Weight|| 56.0 g/m|
9.876 lbs / 4480 g
|Diameter (millimeters)||9.0 mm|
|Length (meters)||80 m|
|UIAA Falls (Single / Half / Twin)||5 / - / -|
|Dynamic Elongation (Single / Half / Twin)||36.0 % / - / -|
|Static Elongation (Single / Half / Twin)||-|
|Impact Force (Single / Half / Twin)||8.30 kN / - / -|
|Sheath Proportion (%)|||
|Sheath Slippage (mm)|||
|Rope End Marker||None|
|Certification||CE, EN, UIAA|
Long but informative video, talks about all the features of 9/10 Opposite in details.
No voice explanation but the video shows all the features of Triaxiale rope.
Serious sport climbers will find this rope perfectly suits their projecting needs, and although the price is kind of steep, you’re getting the performance and practical uses of two cords for the price of one.
I only have two negative observations so far. One, the 10mm side seems to be holding onto kinks. I’m not sure why this is, as the 9mm side is kink free. Second, when lowering with a GriGri, if you are going from fat to skinny, you will likely drop your climber a short distance as the cam takes a second to engage the skinnier part of the rope. In my mind these are minor inconveniences that are far outweighed by the benefits, but certainly worth noting.
One thing I really like about Millet ropes is the anti-twist packaging. Unlike many ropes, which seem to maddeningly twist and knot in snarls that could best even Alexander, the Opposite is packaged so that it is easy to uncoil and put to use.
The rope you bring to the sport crag depends on what phase of the redpointing process you’re in: Toproping and working a project requires a nice fat cord while send attempts are much better with a pleasantly skinny cord. Instead of lugging—and buying—two separate lines, take the Opposite TRX 9/10, which is an 80-meter cord with two different diameters. One end is 50 meters of 9mm thickness, and the other is 30 meters of 10mm thickness, so you can carry one cord for two vastly different purposes. Not only did our testers think this was a genius idea, but they loved the performance of the rope, from toproping in Rumney, New Hampshire, to taking 15-foot falls on Sonic Youth (5.13a) in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado. Millet’s Triaxiale braided core has been proven in past years as a strong and long-lasting design, and that was no different with the
Opposite. Six months and two road-tripping sendbots couldn’t get the rope to reveal any durability flaws, and it ran through a variety of belay devices (both tube style and assisted braking) smoothly. Even the changeover point where it goes from 9mm to 10mm was seamless when moving through belay devices and gear. It only comes in an 80-meter version, and at an average of 63 g/m, it weighs in at just over 11 pounds.
With 30 meters of 10mm rope on one end and 50 meters of 9mm cord on the other, you’re getting two different ropes that any committed sport climber needs: his trusted fatty for taking tons of falls and a lighter, skinnier rope for send attempts.” Read the full review in our Editors' Choice Awards.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.