How to use 9.1mm Joker correctly, precautions, lifetime, care and maintenance with instructional pictures.
The 9.1mm Joker 70m Dry is officially retired.You've found a page of history! The 9.1mm Joker 70m Dry is no longer produced by Beal and it is not available to buy from major online retailers. You can still check out all the specs and claim your ownership.
9.1mm Joker 70m Dry
Here is the ultimate rope, the latest creation of the BEAL LAB, born with the help of the BEAL Team climbers. It's the only rope in the world which conforms to all 3 dynamic rope norms.
The JOKER is in effect at the same time a single rope, a half rope and a twin rope.
This rope will be loved by the most extreme climbers, seeking lightness and easy running, as much as by more traditional climbers seeking a multi-purpose rope for ridge routes or classic face routes, mixed ice and snow, or snow alone.
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|Weight|| 53.0 g/m|
8.180 lbs / 3710 g
|Diameter (millimeters)||9.1 mm|
|Length (meters)||70 m|
|UIAA Falls (Single / Half / Twin)||6 / 24 / 0|
|Dynamic Elongation (Single / Half / Twin)||37.0 % / 0.0 % / 0.0 %|
|Static Elongation (Single / Half / Twin)||8.0 % / 0.0 % / 0.0 %|
|Impact Force (Single / Half / Twin)||5.60 kN / 7.90 kN / 9.10 kN|
|Sheath Proportion (%)||35.0 %|
|Sheath Slippage (mm)||0 mm|
|Rope End Marker||None|
|Certification||CE, EN, UIAA|
No voice, but the demo speaks for itself as Beal cuts a traditional rope and a rope with Unicore technology. The difference is certainly dramatic.
No voice, but the demo speaks for itself as Beal cuts a classical Joker rope and a Unicore Joker rope. The difference is certainly dramatic.
Ropes that are too stiff are always annoying and cumbersome to work with, and ones with a super soft hand never seem to last as long. The GriGri 2 was perfect with the Joker, feeding rope easily when the leader needed it, but also locked up the GriGri to catch falls securely. I used the Joker on several longer routes as both a single rope, and occasionally as a double rope, with the Guide ATC in auto-locking guide mode. Again, the 9.1mm diameter was great in the belay device, easy to reel in slack even when the second was climbing quickly in alpine terrain, but locking to catch a fall without issue.
The Joker has multiple-personality disorder. This 9.1mm lead cord is the first-ever rope certified for single, half or twin use. At 53 grams per meter, it's also the lightest-weight single rope made, just nudging out the BlueWater Dominator and Mammut Revelation, both 9.2mm single ropes that check in at 55 grams per meter. The 4.2-ounce savings on a 60-meter cord aren't really appreciable, but this multitasking superlight rope does streamline vertical life. You can string up the Joker for your redpoint send, use it double- or twin-style for zig-zagging trad lines, and ditto for ice, alpine, and mountaineering (it's dry treated). In the latter applications, if the rope pulls up shy of the belay, just untie from one end, have the belayer pull it down, then continue, a la Dean Potterr, über-pitch style. At rappels, the rope's midpoint pattern change makes equalizing it through anchors a cinch.
In hand, the five-single-fall Joker ($169 for 60m; $215 for 70m) is wispy yet firm. Though a single rope, it behaves like a double: It rappels fast and won't lock up a belay device as abruptly as a fatter rope. Take precautions: Belay gloves are a yes, but the Grigri, which won't fully lock on the Joker, is a no.
One of our most experienced testers called this rope “one of my all-time favorites, especially for onsight and redpoint attempts.” It rated the highest possible scores for ease of clipping and ease of knotting/untying. Of course, 9.1mm is on the far skinny end of skinny single ropes, and not for beginners or toproping—rope stretch was noticeably long. But for experienced sport climbers looking to redpoint diffi cult projects, this rope was the ticket. Durability wasn’t possible to test in our short winter season, but Beal has a good track record of quality ropes.