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Omega Pacific Dash Dirtbag
  • Omega Pacific Dash Dirtbag
  • Omega Pacific Dash Dirtbag

Dash Dirtbag 11cm

Omega Pacific

Rating

My vote: None ( 3.5 avg )

Description

No longer considered appropriate solely for sport climbs or “clip-ups,” quickdraws have become standard equipment on almost every climber’s rack. Crack climbers, trad climbers and ice climbers alike all agree that they’re time-savers and a vital piece of the climbing system. Used to reduce rope drag and to prevent accidental dislodging of protection on the lead, quickdraws are specialized pieces of equipment that come in a variety of styles, lengths and with varying types of carabiners dedicated to either end.

In general, longer ‘draws are better for wandering face climbs (tripled shoulder slings like our Alpine Draws are the best) or traditional crack climbs, but for short routes that are—primarily—bolt-protected, shorter quickdraws are the norm. For ice climbing, select one of the Five-O series draws for their ease-of-use with gloves; if you’re on a budget, select the Dirtbag Draws for their low cost. No matter what your preference or style of climbing, you’ll find an Omega Pacific quickdraw that’s up to the task.

We orient our carabiners on all our standard quickdraws with the gates facing opposite each other. We feel that this is the safest method to minimize the possibility of simultaneously loading both carabiners in a gate-open position while leading routes which may wander above and to the left or right of your last placement. Under certain circumstances, it is possible for both gates to open during a fall as the ‘draw is scraped along the rock while it orients iteself below the point of protection. By opposing the carabiners on a draw, we reduce the possibility of simultaneous gate-opening in this manner.

Retail price

US$ 11.95

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Weight 92 g
Dogbone Size 11 cm long, 12 mm wide
Dogbone Material Dyneema­
Dogbone Strength (kN) 22 kN
Top Carabiner Dash -
US$ 6.95

Omega Pacific Dash Full View
Bottom Carabiner Dash -
US$ 6.95

Omega Pacific Dash Full View

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AVG RATING
3.48
( 3.5 avg )
Rating
3.48
( 3.5 avg )

As cheap as a Scottish dirtbag and about as pretty

Pros
cheap
simple
durable
Cons
basic
Disclaimer
WeighMyRack got a couple of these for testing purposes.

I've been using the Dash Dirtbag 'draws for a few months now, almost exclusively on sport routes. Although I was not initially impressed by how these draws looked, climb after climb, I find myself reaching for these things instead of the other draws in my pack.

The simple reason is that they work. For such a dirt-cheap draw, the Dash Dirtbags do what they're supposed to do and they do it pretty damn well. No pretty colors, no fancy key-lock nose, just easy clipping bolt after bolt. They're size is deceptive too. At first I thought they were going to be a little small, and with two straight gates they may not clip the rope effectively. Wrong. The smaller size and rounded nose actually make clipping bolts pretty easy. Especially those bolts where the threads are protruding and might interfere with larger carabiners. The Dash Dirtbags clip ropes surprisingly well also. The dog-bones are sewn tight around the rope-side 'biner, which negates the need for a rubber keeper and makes identifying the loosely sewn bolt-side 'biner easy enough for proper racking.

Conclusion: If you're looking for a dirt cheap quickdraw that will last for years and won't leave you cursing at each clip, the Dash Dirtbags will perform admirably. But if you're someone that wants to look like they climb so hard they need the absolute best (read: most expensive) gear available, these are not for you.