The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
Wedgies Nut 1
Wedgies are built with a double-taper to fit slight flares and more typical cracks alike. Available individually or in sets, each is extruded and machined from 6000-series, aircraft-quality aluminum alloy and anodized for instant identification on your rack. Slung with strong, braided steel cable, they’re built for years of use.
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|Weight (grams / ounces)||7 g / 0.25 oz|
|Size||1 full size (full strength)|
|Colors as a Nut Set||Multi|
|Strength (kilonewtons)||2 kN|
|Range (inches / millimeters)|| 0.14 in - 0.39 in|
3.56 mm - 9.91 mm
|Material(s)|| Main Material: 7000-Series Aluminum|
Wedgies are an excellent option for climbers looking to buy a set of nuts without spending too much money. They make a good set for beginners because of their large continuous size run, solid durability, decent placement versatility and relative ease of cleaning. Plus, a complete set comes with a Caranut tool how can you argue with that? As one of the heavier nuts, Wedgies are a poor choice for alpine climbers, mountaineers or anybody trying to save weight.