Instruction for using DMM Nut and warnings, maintenance and lifespan with instructional pictures.
Small flared placements can be dealt with very effectively; providing of course you’ve got some Peenuts on your rack.
These offset and tapered nuts are worth their weight in gold on granite and slate. They allow a bigger area of surface contact than the smaller brass micro nuts. This means that the energy generated in a fall is spread out and the rock is less likely to break.
If you climb on quarried rock a lot this type of nut really comes into its own. Nothing fits those flared peg scars like a set of Peenuts.
• Offset tapered alloy micro nuts on wire
• Hot forged
• 5 sizes
• Colour coded for easy recognition
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|Weight (grams / ounces)||16 g / 0.56 oz|
|Size||4 micro nut (full strength)|
|Colors as a Nut Set||Multi|
|Strength (kilonewtons)||8 kN|
|Offset||Yes, offset for irregular cracks|
|Range (inches / millimeters)|| 0.35 in - 0.52 in|
8.90 mm - 13.20 mm
|Material(s)|| Main Material: Aluminum|
Peenuts are a good complement to a rack of any type, especially those of other DMM or Wild Country nuts where Peenuts will follow the same color scheme. They are best for smaller cracks if you aren't willing to give up the durability of aluminum. They fit pin scars and shallow flares well for aid climbers but they should not replace a set of brass nuts.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-124 and EN-12270 standards for chocks (which includes nuts and hexes).