Instruction for using DMM Nut and warnings, maintenance and lifespan with instructional pictures.
Brass I.M.P. 1
When the going turns tricky and the only cracks you can find are too narrow for conventional nuts, it’s time to pull out the micro wires. It’s always better to have something, however small, between you and the ground.
IMP stands for Immaculate Marginal Protection – a neat little acronym, but one which fits perfectly.
IMP runners can never be considered as ‘trainstoppers’, at least not in the same way that a well placed Wallnut might be. But they can give unexpected holding power in marginal placements, particularly if you cluster the placements and equalise them so that the load is spread evenly.
We’ve given them a special aluminium swage which holds the wires parallel but allows one wire to slide. This means the nut is loaded more evenly on both sides. The swage is colour coded too, so you’ll always pick the right one.
Obviously these are quite a specialist nut, but anybody pushing into the extreme grades should consider them as an essential addition to their rack.
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|Weight (grams / ounces)||4 g / 0.14 oz|
|Size||1 micro nut (full strength)|
|Colors as a Nut Set||Single|
|Strength (kilonewtons)||4 kN|
|Range (inches / millimeters)|| 0.16 in - 0.22 in|
4.00 mm - 5.60 mm
|Material(s)|| Main Material: Silicon Bronze and Silver|
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-124 and EN-12270 standards for chocks (which includes nuts and hexes).