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DMM Alloy Offset 7

Alloy Offset 7

DMM

Rating

My vote: None ( 5.7 avg )

Description

This classic nut design used to be made by HB Climbing, but became unavailable when the company closed down in 2005. Demand for the nuts was still great so we decided to re-launch them.

The Offsets were orig

Retail price

US$ 14.95

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Weight (grams / ounces) 27 g / 0.95 oz
Size 7 full size (full strength)
Colors as a Nut Set Multi
Strength (kilonewtons) 12 kN
Color ­
Offset Yes, offset for irregular cracks
Range (inches / millimeters) 0.47 in - 0.59 in
12.00 mm - 15.10 mm
Material(s) ­
Certification ­
Details of Alloy Offset Nuts
Alloy Offset Nut Review

No reviews yet.

Outdoor Gear Lab Gear Review rating 4.9/5

For aid climbing these nuts are practically a must. If you are a cam-placing junkie and rarely use nuts then you will probably enjoy these nuts more than others due to their ability to excel when cams won't come close.

The Alpine Start Gear Review no rating given just a review

Anyway, as I mentioned they come in a set of 5 (smaller offset nuts are available in brass much like the original RP’s), each is rated to 12 kN, they range in size from 12 to 23mm (size 7 to 11), colour coded, are not inexpensive (about $16 ea.) and have a bit of a gap between sizes (I infill this gap with a half dozen of my regular nuts BD nuts) though they can be rotated to make intermediate sizes) but WOW do these things work!  Any kind of flaring or pod like crack as well as many shallow cracks (like the alligator cracking in the Red Rocks varnish that tend to be both shallow and pod like) in the sandstone and these things just slotted in!  They quickly became my go-to for the rest of the trip.  When I got home to Canmore I found that the limestone and quartzite there liked to eat these nuts just as much.  Any placement where the crack edges are a little funky and a regular nut wouldn’t quite seat properly and one of these DMM Offset nuts would just slot in, Bomber: clip and forget.

The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.