General information of Black Diamond Nut, warning, care, maintenance, storage, inspection and retirement.
Offset Micro Stopper 1
From aid pitches to hard, modern trad routes, Black Diamond Offset Micro Stoppers provide essential protection in pin scars, flaring cracks and awkward, misshaped placements. The copper/iron construction provides an optimized amount of bite and holding power in any rock type. The Offset Micro's unique construction relies on a head piece forged onto the cable for increased cable durability.
• Copper/iron mix in an offset design provides an excellent combination of bite and strength
• Patented swage is strong, flexible, and less prone to fraying
NOTE: *Sizes 1 and 2 are for direct aid only
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From granite cracks, to basalt and sandstone seams, they tend to work where nothing else will. The smallest sizes are recommended for aid climbing only, but I like to think of them as my “it’s OK, just put them in and keep climbing till you find something better” pieces. Also, the folks who frequent the big walls of Zion and their copious flaring pin scars will likely find them an indispensable part of their rack.
These tiny nuts are a compound of copper and iron machined to offset wedges and swaged with a patented technology that Black Diamond claims is strong, flexible and not prone to fraying. These are the next-generation RP. After a few trips up The Health Issue, a new granite 5.11 close to the office, I was impressed by the nuts' durability. Alloys usually dent and scratch pretty quickly, but the Micro Stoppers held up to some yanking, though (thankfully) no falls.
I really like the shape of the offset, which BD touts as optimized for pin scars. I found two natural seams on the route where the offset shape fit when a regular tapered steel nut didn't.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-124 and EN-12270 standards for chocks (which includes nuts and hexes).