The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
Curved Hex 8
• The classic hex design improved by adding curved faces
• 4 placement options
• The range of a cam at a fraction of the price and weight
• Color-coded tubing makes identification easy
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|Weight (g / oz)|
Weight (g / oz)
In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
|94 g / 3.30 oz|
The numerical size as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
Generally the size will be between 1 and 15, but there is no standard, so each "3" you see could have totally different dimensions.
For quick size identification purposes. Sometimes the head of the hex is not anodized, in this case, the stated color will come from the sling.
This field refers to the hex head. A majority of hex heads will be 6061-T6 Aluminum, but we don't write that in all willy nilly and only have input here after we've confirmed the material with the manufacturer/brand.
In kilonewtons, the passive strength as stated by the manufacturer/brand. All hexes are rated in passive strength, instead of active strength like cams.
The material that takes up the majority of the "sling."
Note: If a hex has a wire sling with tubular protection, we just call this "wire."
Similarly, when we say "Dyneema" this does not mean the sling is 100% Dyneema. It will be some combination of Dyneema and nylon (there are no 100% Dyneema slings). Since you cannot dye Dyneema, the colored portion of the sling is made of nylon.
|Dyneema, single loop|
|Range (in / mm)|
Range (in / mm)
In inches and millimeters, the maximum range as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
This is measuring the minimum length on the small side of the hex, and the maximum size of the widest part of the hex.
| 1.57 in - 2.02 in|
39.90 mm - 51.30 mm
The main climbing gear certifications are CE and UIAA--and normally the UIAA creates the rules that the CE body also supports. When possible, we try to list all the certifications the product carries.
To sell a climbing product in Europe, the device must be CE certified. There are no official requirements to sell climbing gear in the US. The UIAA certification is a voluntary process.
Bottom line, the FS Mini Long draws are always on my rack now whenever I have to backpack into my climbing objectives and the Metolius Curve Hexes are almost always on my rack, especially when doing a lot of the long winding old school routes in Little Cottonwood Canyon. These are honestly two of my favorite discoveries over the past year. I haven’t found a better way to drop weight and add to the fun of climbing.