Instruction for using DMM Hex and warnings, maintenance and lifespan with instructional pictures.
Torque Nut 1
Big nuts have come a long way since the days of the Hexcentric; gone are the clunky, heavy beasts of old. Nowadays we have a much lighter and more sophisticated answer to big crack protection.
The Torque Nut shape fits well in normal crack placements, but they have the extra advantage of working extremely well when placed in a camming position. Experiment with this at the bottom of the crag and you’ll see what we mean.
We’ve also given them a double sling. Clip them to your harness, doubled up and neat and they won’t be clanking down by your knees. You’ve then got the choice of a quick extension once the nut is placed. If you are close to the ground keep it short to reduce fall potential. Further up the pitch pull it into the extended position to reduce drag.
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|Weight (g / oz)|
Weight (g / oz)
In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
|54 g / 1.90 oz|
The numerical size as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
Generally the size will be between 1 and 15, but there is no standard, so each "3" you see could have totally different dimensions.
For quick size identification purposes. Sometimes the head of the hex is not anodized, in this case, the stated color will come from the sling.
In kilonewtons, the passive strength as stated by the manufacturer/brand. All hexes are rated in passive strength, instead of active strength like cams.
This field refers to the hex head. A majority of hex heads will be 6061-T6 Aluminum, but we don't write that in all willy nilly and only have input here after we've confirmed the material with the manufacturer/brand.
The material that takes up the majority of the "sling."
Note: If a hex has a wire sling with tubular protection, we just call this "wire."
Similarly, when we say "Dyneema" this does not mean the sling is 100% Dyneema. It will be some combination of Dyneema and nylon (there are no 100% Dyneema slings). Since you cannot dye Dyneema, the colored portion of the sling is made of nylon.
|Dyneema, double loop|
|Range (in / mm)|
Range (in / mm)
In inches and millimeters, the maximum range as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
This is measuring the minimum length on the small side of the hex, and the maximum size of the widest part of the hex.
| 1.22 in - 1.61 in|
31.00 mm - 41.00 mm
The main climbing gear certifications are CE and UIAA--and normally the UIAA creates the rules that the CE body also supports. When possible, we try to list all the certifications the product carries.
To sell a climbing product in Europe, the device must be CE certified. There are no official requirements to sell climbing gear in the US. The UIAA certification is a voluntary process.
DMM describes all the features and design details of the Torque Nuts.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-124 and EN-12270 standards for chocks (which includes nuts and hexes).