The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
The Dyneema Carvex 5 is officially retired.You've found a page of history! The Dyneema Carvex 5 is no longer produced by CAMP and it is not available to buy from major online retailers. You can still check out all the specs and claim your ownership.
Dyneema Carvex 5
• Rock Climbing, Alpinism
• Color-coded webbing and chocks for fast identification
• Lighter weight, stronger and more flexible than cable
• Dyneema slings can be used as runners
• Sizes 4 - 7 have 8.5” (22cm) slings, 8 - 11 have 13” (34 cm) slings
The larger Carvex sizes equipped with Dyneema webbing. Though more expensive than cable, this option greatly improves functionality. TIP: slide the sling so that the stitching butts up to the nut for an extra couple inches of reach.
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|Weight (g / oz)|
Weight (g / oz)
In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
|32 g / 1.13 oz|
The numerical size as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
Generally the size will be between 1 and 15, but there is no standard, so each "3" you see could have totally different dimensions.
For quick size identification purposes. Sometimes the head of the hex is not anodized, in this case, the stated color will come from the sling.
In kilonewtons, the passive strength as stated by the manufacturer/brand. All hexes are rated in passive strength, instead of active strength like cams.
This field refers to the hex head. A majority of hex heads will be 6061-T6 Aluminum, but we don't write that in all willy nilly and only have input here after we've confirmed the material with the manufacturer/brand.
The material that takes up the majority of the "sling."
Note: If a hex has a wire sling with tubular protection, we just call this "wire."
Similarly, when we say "Dyneema" this does not mean the sling is 100% Dyneema. It will be some combination of Dyneema and nylon (there are no 100% Dyneema slings). Since you cannot dye Dyneema, the colored portion of the sling is made of nylon.
|Dyneema, single loop|
|Range (in / mm)|
Range (in / mm)
In inches and millimeters, the maximum range as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
This is measuring the minimum length on the small side of the hex, and the maximum size of the widest part of the hex.
| 1.02 in - 1.34 in|
26.00 mm - 34.00 mm
The main climbing gear certifications are CE and UIAA--and normally the UIAA creates the rules that the CE body also supports. When possible, we try to list all the certifications the product carries.
To sell a climbing product in Europe, the device must be CE certified. There are no official requirements to sell climbing gear in the US. The UIAA certification is a voluntary process.
These CAMP hexes are functioning fine and predictably, they are after all hexes, their dyneema slings colour-coded to the heads form quite the rainbow together and the colour makes the sizes easy to identify; they seem light as feathers; the Carvex heads are curved for maximum hex-to-rock contact, ensuring better placements. I love the distinct muted clang of them and I do still love placing them but ethereally floating beyond all that they are proving to be wonderful talismans.