A pictoral representation of UIAA-105 and EN-12277 standards for harnesses.
Lightweight alpine harness with minimal pack size for top performances at the crag.
Laminated construction ensures perfect load and pressure distribution with a minimal pack size.
3D mesh padding and soft edging for optimal comfort.
15 mm Slide Block buckles on waist belt for secure and comfortable fit.
Tie in point with textile abrasion protector includes a wear indicator. In the event of excessive wear a red thread will become visible as an early warning assistant.
In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
If there are differences in weight (due to multiple sizes or optional accessories) we'll list them here.
The default weight is the middle-most size, often this is size M.
| 310 g|
XS : 275 g / 9.7 oz
|Sizes||XS, S, M, L, XL|
Number of Gear Loops
Gear loops are used to hold gear (quickdraws, cams, etc) onto your harness. 4 gear loops is most common.
0 - 1 Gear Loops
Most often on full body harnesses or guide/gym style harnesses.
2-3 Gear Loops
Mostly found on lighter harnesses made for [ski] mountaineering or high-end sport climbing where weight is a high priority.
4 - 5 Gear Loops
The standard/most common number for climbing harnesses. Perfect for sport and trad.
More Than 6 Gear Loops
Designed for long multi-pitch and big wall climbing, found on harnesses made to hold the maximum amount of gear.
Occasionally, the number of gear loops will change on a harness model depending on the size. There could be 7 gear loops for the med/large but only 5 gear loops for the xsmall/small. In this case we list the highest number for the filters, and then write an explanation on the product page like, “Size S/XS can only fit 5 gear loops.”
|4 Gear loops|
|Ice Clip Slots|
Ice Clip Slot
Ice clipper slots are made to fit a carabiner that holds ice screws. These slots are generally only used by ice climbers but there is no disadvantage to having them on your harness.
Less than 40% of harnesses will have ice clipper slots. And those harnesses will usually have 2 or 4 slots, often located next to, or between, the gear loops.
|Belay / Tie-In||One Loop|
|Waist Buckle Type||Quick Adjust|
|Leg Buckle Type||Quick Adjust|
Trad climbers often look for a haul loop as they're intended to haul a rope (second line) or pack (while you climb the chimney).
A haul loop can also hold shoes or other accessories. Although not the intended use, it is also commonly used to hold a chalk bag.
|Size Chart|| |
Overall, I think the Leaf is nice. I do wish the Euro and the North American brands would put a proper fifth gear loops onto their harnesses but I’m sure they have their reasons not to, even if it would suit me and my predominantly trad climbing needs. The harness is comfy and does what I want a harness to do, while weighing very little and packing up compactly - a case where, for once, less really is more.
I reviewed Edelrid’s Orion harness awhile back and commented that it was the most comfortable harness I’d ever used. Now while the ‘Leaf’ doesn’t quite reach the same level of comfort it is close and completely trounces the Orion in terms of weight and packability – important considerations when sorting that sack for a long day in the hills.In fact the Leaf proved the lightest of the harnesses on review. If you want a harness that does everything with perhaps more of an emphasis on the summer rather than winter Alpine pursuits then this is it. An interesting design point is the tie in loop has a textile abrasion protector which includes a wear indicator. In the event of excessive wear a red thread will become visible providing a warning.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.