How to use DMM Harness, warning, inspection and maintenence with instructional pictures
Need a harness for winter sports – well, you’ve come to the right place. The Super Couloir is designed for ice climbing, alpine climbing, mountaineering and ski touring; you could even use it for rock climbing but we’d probably recommend something a bit more padded for that.
It’s light, easy to put on (even when wearing crampons, skis or snowshoes) and has plenty of racking for gear and screws. The ‘diaper’ pull through leg loops design allows you to put it on without undoing any cumbersome buckles (a task especially difficult with gloves on) or standing into the leg loops.
We’ve used ‘supported’ 44mm webbing on the waistbelt – this is surprisingly comfortable on hanging belays, it’s also low profile so it will fit snugly under your rucsac.
-Full specification alpine harness
-Low weight and minimal pack size
-Twin hypalon ice screw racking strips
-Five gear loops
-20mm belay loop rated at 25kN
-44mm minimally padded waist for lightweight comfort
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In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
If there are differences in weight (due to multiple sizes or optional accessories) we'll list them here.
The default weight is the middle-most size, often this is size M.
| 350 g|
S : 340 g / 12 oz
|Sizes||S, M, L, XL|
Number of Gear Loops
Gear loops are used to hold gear (quickdraws, cams, etc) onto your harness. 4 gear loops is most common.
0 - 1 Gear Loops
Most often on full body harnesses or guide/gym style harnesses.
2-3 Gear Loops
Mostly found on lighter harnesses made for [ski] mountaineering or high-end sport climbing where weight is a high priority.
4 - 5 Gear Loops
The standard/most common number for climbing harnesses. Perfect for sport and trad.
More Than 6 Gear Loops
Designed for long multi-pitch and big wall climbing, found on harnesses made to hold the maximum amount of gear.
Occasionally, the number of gear loops will change on a harness model depending on the size. There could be 7 gear loops for the med/large but only 5 gear loops for the xsmall/small. In this case we list the highest number for the filters, and then write an explanation on the product page like, “Size S/XS can only fit 5 gear loops.”
|5 Gear loops|
|Ice Clip Slots|
Ice Clip Slot
Ice clipper slots are made to fit a carabiner that holds ice screws. These slots are generally only used by ice climbers but there is no disadvantage to having them on your harness.
Less than 40% of harnesses will have ice clipper slots. And those harnesses will usually have 2 or 4 slots, often located next to, or between, the gear loops.
|Belay / Tie-In||One Loop|
|Waist Buckle Type||Manual Doubleback|
|Leg Buckle Type||Clip|
Trad climbers often look for a haul loop as they're intended to haul a rope (second line) or pack (while you climb the chimney).
A haul loop can also hold shoes or other accessories. Although not the intended use, it is also commonly used to hold a chalk bag.
|Size Chart|| |
A pictoral representation of UIAA-105 and EN-12277 standards for harnesses.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.