How to use DMM Harness, warning, inspection and maintenence with instructional pictures
The 2013 Renegade is the third evolution of our premium adjustable leg harness. It now has an improved racking system designed to work with both summer and winter racks, a narrower belay loop for better compatibility with small belay biners and skinny rear elastics that are light whilst still holding their position well.
This really is the ultimate all rounder; a clever design that works across the full range of climbing disciplines: from cragging and winter climbing to big alpine routes.
Let’s take a closer look at some of those smart design features:
For a start, there is the free floating waist belt with fully adjustable, Slide Lock buckles – regardless of how many clothes you wear, or whether you are at the top or bottom of the sizing range, you will get a good fit with the gear loops, padding and belay loop all in the correct place.
The waist belt is constructed from high quality closed cell foam combined with a firm spreader plate. This gives excellent comfort and support, while the carefully sculpted shape allows freedom of movement, no matter how gymnastic things get.
And then there is the racking system – we believe this should be generous enough to cope with anything up to the biggest of sea cliff racks. And let’s face it; with today’s super lightweight gear we all carry more wires, cams and quickdraws than we used to. There are seven (Yes, that’s seven!) gear loops – three on each side and one on the back. These have been re-positioned and re-shaped for 2013 so that your gear is less cluttered and hangs more evenly.
The Hypalon ice clipper attachment points have also been modified so that you can use two of the clipper points without interfering with the standard gear loops. The harness can hold up to four ice clippers – more than enough racking space for the longest ice pitches!
We’ve fitted the adjustable leg loops with Slide Lock buckles – these allow a large range of fit, but are also easy to adjust. This means you will be able to put your harness on after you’ve donned crampons without the usual awkward, frozen-fingered struggle. Another important design feature is the buckle shape. We’ve rounded off the corners and kept the profile low – this makes them less likely to snag in constricted situations. The spare webbing tails are also kept neatly out of the way with elastic retainers.
And finally it’s worth mentioning a few of the micro features which make this such a special harness. We have used Cordura face fabric on the waistbelt and legs, ensuring extra durability. The tie-in points are also protected by an even tougher abrasion resistant webbing and the belay loop, even though it is thinner is still rated at a whopping 25kN.
Note: A female specific version of the Renegade is available – the Puma – which has a slightly longer rise and a smaller waist to leg size ratio.
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In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
If there are differences in weight (due to multiple sizes or optional accessories) we'll list them here.
The default weight is the middle-most size, often this is size M.
| 415 g|
S : 395 g / 13.9 oz
|Sizes||S, M, L, XL, XXL|
Number of Gear Loops
Gear loops are used to hold gear (quickdraws, cams, etc) onto your harness. 4 gear loops is most common.
0 - 1 Gear Loops
Most often on full body harnesses or guide/gym style harnesses.
2-3 Gear Loops
Mostly found on lighter harnesses made for [ski] mountaineering or high-end sport climbing where weight is a high priority.
4 - 5 Gear Loops
The standard/most common number for climbing harnesses. Perfect for sport and trad.
More Than 6 Gear Loops
Designed for long multi-pitch and big wall climbing, found on harnesses made to hold the maximum amount of gear.
Occasionally, the number of gear loops will change on a harness model depending on the size. There could be 7 gear loops for the med/large but only 5 gear loops for the xsmall/small. In this case we list the highest number for the filters, and then write an explanation on the product page like, “Size S/XS can only fit 5 gear loops.”
|7 Gear loops|
|Ice Clip Slots|
Ice Clip Slot
Ice clipper slots are made to fit a carabiner that holds ice screws. These slots are generally only used by ice climbers but there is no disadvantage to having them on your harness.
Less than 40% of harnesses will have ice clipper slots. And those harnesses will usually have 2 or 4 slots, often located next to, or between, the gear loops.
|Belay / Tie-In||One Loop|
|Waist Buckle Type||Quick Adjust|
|Leg Buckle Type||Quick Adjust|
Trad climbers often look for a haul loop as they're intended to haul a rope (second line) or pack (while you climb the chimney).
A haul loop can also hold shoes or other accessories. Although not the intended use, it is also commonly used to hold a chalk bag.
|Size Chart|| |
L (will fit most XL and the lower range of XXL)
So, in conclusion, the DMM Renegade 2 is a great all round mountain harness. It will perform well for all climbing activities, is very comfortable and the seven gear loops work well and are useful (especially for big multi pitch rock and winter routes). It’s been my ‘go to’ harness for instructional/guiding work and is definitely a good improvement on the original Renegade. If you are going to buy just one harness for everything you do then you will find the Renegade 2 good value for money.
A pictoral representation of UIAA-105 and EN-12277 standards for harnesses.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.