A pictoral representation of UIAA-105 and EN-12277 standards for harnesses.
Steep jughauls, technical slabs or vertical pockets—when it comes to sport climbing, Black Diamond built the Black Diamond Ozone Harness to take on the full spectrum of bolt-protected challenges. Featuring our Kinetic Core Construction, which uses a thin layer of Vectran fibers in place of traditional webbing to evenly distribute weight across the waist and legs, the Ozone provides a comfortable yet minimalist fit for hangdogging and hard redpointing alike. Four pressure-molded gear loops hold enough drops for rope-stretching pitches, and the Forged Speed Adjust waistbelt buckle makes for super-fast on and off.
When you click a link below and then checkout online, no matter what you buy (climbing gear or not), we get a small commission that helps us keep this site up-to-date. Thanks!
If you can’t see any buying options above, try turning off all ad-blocking plugins.
In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
If there are differences in weight (due to multiple sizes or optional accessories) we'll list them here.
The default weight is the middle-most size, often this is size M.
| 300 g|
M : 300 g / 10.5 oz
(BD doesn't provide the weights for other sizes so we're working on gathering this info by hand, stay tuned!)
|Sizes||XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL|
Number of Gear Loops
Gear loops are used to hold gear (quickdraws, cams, etc) onto your harness. 4 gear loops is most common.
0 - 1 Gear Loops
Most often on full body harnesses or guide/gym style harnesses.
2-3 Gear Loops
Mostly found on lighter harnesses made for [ski] mountaineering or high-end sport climbing where weight is a high priority.
4 - 5 Gear Loops
The standard/most common number for climbing harnesses. Perfect for sport and trad.
More Than 6 Gear Loops
Designed for long multi-pitch and big wall climbing, found on harnesses made to hold the maximum amount of gear.
Occasionally, the number of gear loops will change on a harness model depending on the size. There could be 7 gear loops for the med/large but only 5 gear loops for the xsmall/small. In this case we list the highest number for the filters, and then write an explanation on the product page like, “Size S/XS can only fit 5 gear loops.”
|4 Gear loops|
|Ice Clip Slots|
Ice Clip Slot
Ice clipper slots are made to fit a carabiner that holds ice screws. These slots are generally only used by ice climbers but there is no disadvantage to having them on your harness.
Less than 40% of harnesses will have ice clipper slots. And those harnesses will usually have 2 or 4 slots, often located next to, or between, the gear loops.
|Belay / Tie-In||One Loop|
|Waist Buckle Type||Quick Adjust|
|Leg Buckle Type||None (it stretches)|
Trad climbers often look for a haul loop as they're intended to haul a rope (second line) or pack (while you climb the chimney).
A haul loop can also hold shoes or other accessories. Although not the intended use, it is also commonly used to hold a chalk bag.
|Size Chart|| |
S (will fit the upper range of XS)
This video explains the features of Ozone Harness and Aura Women's Harness.
This harness is very comfortable considering how light and compact it is. Surprisingly, a few testers found the women's version, the Aura, more comfortable than the Black Diamond Chaos, which is beefier, more expensive and is supposed to be more comfortable. It could be that our testers (all men) fit better in women's harnesses. Who knew? At any rate, we were pleasantly surprised at how well it fit. Despite having only two gear loops, it was possible to fit a ton of draws because the gear loops are so big.
This harness forgoes traditional webbing for the internal structure and instead uses Vectran fibers. This adds stability to the shape of the waistbelt and leg loops; it was comfortable even when one tester hung for 15 minutes to analyze moves. Packability was top-notch, with the Ozone scrunching down to slightly smaller than a 32-ounce Nalgene bottle. Testers were able to use it for trad climbing, but preferred to rack on a gear sling instead of the gear loops. More than a few pounds on the harness caused discomfort and made it feel like the waistbelt was sliding down.
Buy this harness if you want a lightweight harness to take you to the next level on your sport climbing quest. It is well made, reasonably comfortable, swallows large numbers of quickdraws and won’t feel restrictive when you’re climbing in it. It is also fine for trad climbing on shorter stuff as well as sessions on the wall.
Conventional wisdom suggests that more padding, a wider swami and adjustable leg loops yield a more comfortable harness. But that’s not always true. I’ve climbed in dozens of harnesses from quilted big wall rigs to alpine g-strings and often the simplest designs are the most comfortable. That’s the case with Black Diamond’s Ozone. Streamlined, light as a snowflake and functional, the Ozone is marketed as a sport harness, but I’m using it for all types of rock climbing from cragging to multipitch trad. The Ozone is built with Kinetic Core Construction, a process where strands of Vectran (a strong, stable fiber used in spacesuits, ropes, and pro bike tires) are woven through the harness to help distribute load. The result is a light and comfortable harness without bulky padding to jab your side fat on high steps. I’d recommend the Ozone for sport climbs and trad routes where you’re carrying a single set of cams and nuts. I recently used it on the Rainbow Wall in Red Rocks, for example. On the downside: The Ozone could use a drop seat for mid-route, multi-pitch emergencies.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.