The Chaos 2013 is officially retired.You've found a page of history! The Chaos 2013 is no longer produced by Black Diamond and it is not available to buy from major online retailers. You can still check out all the specs and claim your ownership.
Optimized for trad cragging and long days in the vertical, the Chaos harness balances comfort and features without weighing you down. We designed the Chaos’ lightweight, low-profile bullhorn-shaped waist with Kinetic Core Construction, which uses multiple strands of Vectran spread across the harness and sandwiched spread between taffeta and lightweight foam, and added a breathable padded lumbar insert to provide top-notch comfort on hanging belays and multi-pitch routes.
-Pre-threaded Speed Adjust waistbelt buckle
-Bullhorn-shaped waistbelt built using Kinetic Core Construction
-4 pressure-molded gear loops
-12 kN-rated haul loop
-Breathable, padded lumbar insert
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In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
If there are differences in weight (due to multiple sizes or optional accessories) we'll list them here.
The default weight is the middle-most size, often this is size M.
| 400 g|
|Sizes||S, M, L, XL|
Number of Gear Loops
Gear loops are used to hold gear (quickdraws, cams, etc) onto your harness. 4 gear loops is most common.
0 - 1 Gear Loops
Most often on full body harnesses or guide/gym style harnesses.
2-3 Gear Loops
Mostly found on lighter harnesses made for [ski] mountaineering or high-end sport climbing where weight is a high priority.
4 - 5 Gear Loops
The standard/most common number for climbing harnesses. Perfect for sport and trad.
More Than 6 Gear Loops
Designed for long multi-pitch and big wall climbing, found on harnesses made to hold the maximum amount of gear.
Occasionally, the number of gear loops will change on a harness model depending on the size. There could be 7 gear loops for the med/large but only 5 gear loops for the xsmall/small. In this case we list the highest number for the filters, and then write an explanation on the product page like, “Size S/XS can only fit 5 gear loops.”
|4 Gear loops|
|Ice Clip Slots|
Ice Clip Slot
Ice clipper slots are made to fit a carabiner that holds ice screws. These slots are generally only used by ice climbers but there is no disadvantage to having them on your harness.
Less than 40% of harnesses will have ice clipper slots. And those harnesses will usually have 2 or 4 slots, often located next to, or between, the gear loops.
|Belay / Tie-In||One Loop|
|Waist Buckle Type||Quick Adjust|
|Leg Buckle Type||None (it stretches)|
Trad climbers often look for a haul loop as they're intended to haul a rope (second line) or pack (while you climb the chimney).
A haul loop can also hold shoes or other accessories. Although not the intended use, it is also commonly used to hold a chalk bag.
This video explains all the design features of Chaos Harness and Ethos Women's Harness.
In the end the R320 and Chaos have different features and benefits. The most important thing with a harness is fit and the ratio of waist band to leg loop size varies between these harnesses. I have been happy wearing both harnesses on all day climbs, which in my mind puts them to the comfort test. Both sets of gear loops have disadvantages and I can hope that the next generation will show some improvements. In terms of durability, I have been really impressed with the R320 since it has shown less wear than the Chaos. Only time will tell if they will continue to age at the same rate.
This was ultimately a small gripe that never detracted from how well the harness performed. I was always comfortable holding my partner’s full weight while belaying, or hangdogging my project. Even on hot days the harness never felt too sweaty. Nothing chaffed. I loved the shape and position of the four gear loops and, best of all, after nearly eight months of hard abuse, the belay loop and tie-in points still look new—which has definitely not been my experience with many lightweight harnesses on today’s market.