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heavyish

Pro Key with Leash

Wild Country
Wild Country Pro Key with Leash
4.32

Clutz-proof, ish

Pros
leash!
Cons
heavyish
catches in pack

This had all the features I was looking for -- slim and strong, pounding end, and attached to my harness. I often let it hang behind me if I'm doing a lot of cleaning, and have never had a problem with it up on the rock. And I'll always know its there.

Too bad its not made of air, but that's typical of full-featured and durable.

Luna

Petzl
Petzl Luna Front View
5.16

For cragging, not crossing glaciers.

Pros
Great Fit
Breathable
Secure
Cons
heavyish

This harness performs supremely well for gym climbing, outdoor sport and trad, and multi-pitch climbs alike. It is sturdily constructed and fits my dinosaur thigh/small waist combination like a dream. The slick nylon is easy to adjust, while the auto doublebacks grip to keep the adjustments where you want them. The waistband is mesh helping with air circulation; gear loops are easy to access and strong enough to withstand a heavy beating. I have been using my Luna harness for 3+ years and it looks brand new (minus a little dirt). I would definitely recommend this harness to all my dudegirls.

While this harness is QUEEN for rock everywhere, I would recommend something lighter and more compactable for glacier travel. Due to the doublebacks being sewn and a size more tailored to fewer layers, getting this puppy over crampons and thick layers is inadvisable.

Oval

Black Diamond
Black Diamond Oval
5.16

It carries my nuts comfortably

Pros
carries my nuts
cheap
Cons
heavyish

In my opinion you cannot use the BD wire gate oval that comes with their nut set to hold your nuts. You need a solid gate (oval) biner. I was told this by a climbing mentor once before I led a climb (with my new nuts and accompanying wire gate biner). I thought “ok, sure, I'll think about it” at first. And then during the climb I experienced the reason why a wire gate biner is not a good idea here. When testing the nut, giving it a good tug with the biner/rest of the nuts, the placed nut somehow came free off the biner. What?! That week I purchased this solid gate oval and have never had this issue again. The gate action is also smooth and a great resistance. If somebody stole this biner, I would buy it again. I wish BD would sell their nuts with this solid gate instead.


I'm too lazy to take all my nuts off this biner to use it for my glacier travels, so I use the oval wire gate biner that came with the nuts for my rescue system instead (with pullys/prussiks). Because ovals really do work a ton better for a pully system.