The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
The Zero Friends 1 is officially retired.You've found a page of history! The Zero Friends 1 is no longer produced by Wild Country and it is not available to buy from major online retailers. You can still check out all the specs and claim your ownership.
Zero Friends 1
As a company dedicated to meeting then beating the standards of the day the Zeros project was the essential first part of our 21st century overhaul.
This overhaul was dedicated to making the lightest gear possible. Inspired by the new era of speed ascents in the Valley by the Hubers, Dean Potter, Leo Houlding and the new wave of uber-difficult clean-aid routes others we felt that the time was ripe for the original cam company to make its contribution. Talking to our guys 'on the ground' and plenty of retailers we tried to figure was missing from the rack - what tools could make the difference? Something that could advance tiny 'clean' placements, that was so light it was no burden to carry, that was so flexible at the head it wouldn't lever out or break the placement?
For all of these questions there seemed one obvious solution and the Zeros project was born. A success from day one these incredible cams have a combination of features that makes us sure that Zeros are 'clever' enough and strong enough to satisfy the demands of cutting edge climbers for the ultimate tool in their quest for more and more extreme adventures.The smallest and lightest cams ever made, Zero Friends were designed without compromise; flexible, strong and reliable, they are perfect for free or aid climbing and essential kit on every hardcore rack.
For 2011 Zero 1 and 2 are longer making them easier to place.
Direct Loading Axle, Camstops, Guided Triggers, Flexistem, Original 13.75 Cam angle, Light 10mm Dyn Extendable Sling, Colour coded.
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|Weight (g / oz)|
Weight (g / oz)
In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
|25.0 g / 0.88 oz|
|Cam Head||4 lobes, single axle|
|Stem||Flexible single stem|
|Sling||x10 mm Dyneema (double loop)|
|Camming Angle||14° (angle is consistent throughout)|
|Active Strength|| 3 kN|
|Cam Range (mm / in)|
Cam Range (mm / in)
In millimeters and inches, the maximum dimensions of the cam lobes when shut tight and fully extended. Since the "usable" range is so debatable, all manufacturers now list the full dimensions to avoid confusion.
If a manufacturer lists the usable range, we'll include it here as well (this is now very rare).
5.50 mm x 7.80 mm / 0.22 in x 0.31 in
These are great for aid or free climbing. The medium sizes are not quite as narrow for getting in tricky aid spots. But the tiny ones get in places where other cams just can't.
The #1 and #2 Zeros are the tiniest cams in the world. If you aid-climb or free-climb thin cracks or pin scars, these are mandatory cams. The bigger cams, #3 and up, are extremely functional and comparable to the other brands.
The smallest two sizes are designed for aid placements only, and we found them most useful in shallow horizontal cracks where we could view all four cam surfaces. (Because the cams and their expansion range on the tiny units was so small, we found it difficult to see all four cams in vertical cracks.) All six sizes feature cam stops and extendable Dyneema slings, and the #3 through #6 sizes proved to be exceptional free-climbing pieces covering the finger sizes.
Pros: Innovative stem/axle connection produces less leverage than any other cam tested; smallest cams available; cam stops on all sizes. Editors' Choice Award.
Cons: Trigger bars are small.
Overall, the Wild Country Zero is revolutionary for lightweight camming units. With my three Zeros, I feel like I've added extra security to my climbing rack for little weight—only 126 grams (4.44 ounces)! The Zeros now have a permanent home on my rack, and I can't wait to give them a go on some longer granite Yosemite routes in the future.
Pros: Lightest on the market; strongest for their size; well functioning flexible stems.
Cons: Spring-covered stem allows for an unnerving twisting motion.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-125 and EN-12276 standards for frictional anchors (which includes SLCD's [cams] and Ballnuts).