The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
Tech Friend 5
Offwidths may not be everyone’s idea of fun, but when there’s no alternative you need total confidence in your gear. This is the case with these big friends: solidly sprung, easy to trigger and a head width that gives an inspiring stability.
Designed like all Friends they’re lightweight and have the tried and tested 13.75 degree constant cam angle, single stem and single axle. Built to perform, these burly units have a reassuring feel and a satisfying solidity, letting you concentrate on the climbing above, not wondering what’s happening below.
Scaled head width.
Full floating trigger with independent cam triggering.
Full strength cam stops.
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|Weight (g / oz)|
Weight (g / oz)
In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
|339.0 g / 11.87 oz|
|Cam Head||4 lobes, single axle|
|Stem||Flexible single stem|
|Sling||x12 mm Dyneema (single loop)|
|Camming Angle||14° |
|Active Strength|| 14 kN|
|Cam Range (mm / in)|
Cam Range (mm / in)
In millimeters and inches, the maximum dimensions of the cam lobes when shut tight and fully extended. Since the "usable" range is so debatable, all manufacturers now list the full dimensions to avoid confusion.
If a manufacturer lists the usable range, we'll include it here as well (this is now very rare).
| Total dimensions|
84 mm x 138 mm / 3 in x 5 in
|Certification||CE, EN, UIAA|
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-125 and EN-12276 standards for frictional anchors (which includes SLCD's [cams] and Ballnuts).