The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
The Helium Friend Double Sling 1 is officially retired.You've found a page of history! The Helium Friend Double Sling 1 is no longer produced by Wild Country and it is not available to buy from major online retailers. You can still check out all the specs and claim your ownership.
Helium Friend Double Sling 1
Helium Friends offer an unrivalled combination of usability, durability and ergonomics that make them the first choice for trad climbers around the world. The perfectly refined range of nine Friends is light, flexible and above all supremely usable. Featuring large overlaps between adjacent units, as well as overlaps between alternate sizes, there are plenty of placement options on a big pitch.
Hot forged cams
Original single stem design
Original single axle design
Independent cam triggering
Full strength camstops
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|Weight (g / oz)|
Weight (g / oz)
In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
|99.0 g / 3.49 oz|
|Cam Head||4 lobes, single axle|
|Stem||Flexible single stem|
|Sling||x12 mm Dyneema (double loop)|
|Camming Angle||14° |
|Active Strength|| 10 kN|
|Cam Range (mm / in)|
Cam Range (mm / in)
In millimeters and inches, the maximum dimensions of the cam lobes when shut tight and fully extended. Since the "usable" range is so debatable, all manufacturers now list the full dimensions to avoid confusion.
If a manufacturer lists the usable range, we'll include it here as well (this is now very rare).
| Total dimensions|
20 mm x 32 mm / 1 in x 1 in
|Certification||CE, EN, UIAA|
No voice explanation but the video shows all the features of Helium Friend Cam.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-125 and EN-12276 standards for frictional anchors (which includes SLCD's [cams] and Ballnuts).