The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
Valley Giant #9
The Valley Giant cams were originally conceived to be strong, stable, reliable and user-friendly off width crack cams. Rather than simply enlarge an existing cam, the design process started with a completely blank sheet of paper. Each element of the assembly has been analyzed to determine how to optimize it in the context of a very large climbing cam. Unlike mass-produced climbing cams, the Valley Giants have not been constrained by any existing design, nor have they been compelled to incorporate components originally designed for smaller cams. This complete freedom to design the cams properly - regardless of any other consideration - has resulted in a number of features, many unique to the Valley Giant, that make them the best off width cams in the world.
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|Weight (g / oz)|
Weight (g / oz)
In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
|880.0 g / 31.00 oz|
|Cam Head||4 lobes, single axle|
|Stem||Rigid double stem|
|Sling||No Sling (no sling loop)|
|Camming Angle||14° (angle is consistent throughout)|
|Active Strength|| 17 kN|
|Cam Range (mm / in)|
Cam Range (mm / in)
In millimeters and inches, the maximum dimensions of the cam lobes when shut tight and fully extended. Since the "usable" range is so debatable, all manufacturers now list the full dimensions to avoid confusion.
If a manufacturer lists the usable range, we'll include it here as well (this is now very rare).
| Total dimensions|
145 mm x 229 mm / 6 in x 9 in
|Materials|| Main Material: 6061-T6/T651 aluminum alloy|
Wire Material: Stainless Steel
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-125 and EN-12276 standards for frictional anchors (which includes SLCD's [cams] and Ballnuts).