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Totem Cam 0.80
  • Totem Cam 0.80
  • Totem Cam 0.80
  • Totem Cam 0.80
  • Totem Cam 0.80
  • Totem Cam 0.80
  • Totem Cam All Sizes
  • Totem Cam All Sizes

Totem Cam 0.80

Totem

Rating

My vote: None ( 5.6 avg )

Description

The new patented Direct Loading Camming Device system (US patent 7,014,156) applies a perfectly equalized load directly onto each lobe, eliminating the risk of inactive lobes and therefore any outbalanced forces that might compromise cam placement stability. Where rock contact with four cam lobes is not possible, Totem Cam still offers the option to load just two lobes.

Totem Cam is Quality Made. We manufacture the main components and we undertake the entire assembly process. Eight years of product development have provided us with the technical skills to ensure a quality job. Totem Cam is CE certified by Cete Apave Sudeurope (Notified body number 0082).

• Well-sized cam heads with the narrowest head width for the smallest sizes.
• Very flexible cam body.
• Easy handling even with hand gloves.
• Loadable on just two lobes.
• Great holding power. Comparing with a regular Spring Loaded Camming Device system (system used by most other brands),
Totem Cam is like a regular SLCD with approximately 13 degree cam angle combined with hard 7075-T6 aluminum lobes.
• Less walking due to strong springs and good flexibility.
• Good expansion range (1.64:1)
• Light and durable.
• Diagonal micro-teeth on the cam lobes’ friction surface provide an additional grip and do not affect the logarithmic shape, as
where standard steep straight teeth are used, so constant holding power and cam placement setting are not compromised.
• Trigger wire ropes directly attached to cam lobes. Strong and durable.

Retail price

US$ 84.95

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Weight (g / oz)

Weight (g / oz)

In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

83.0 g / 2.93 oz
Cam Head 4 lobes, single axle
Offset No offset
Stem Flexible no stem
Sling ­­­(double loop)
Camming Angle 13° (purposefully not a consistent cam angle)
Active Strength 9 kN
­
Cam Range (mm / in)

Cam Range (mm / in)

In millimeters and inches, the maximum dimensions of the cam lobes when shut tight and fully extended. Since the "usable" range is so debatable, all manufacturers now list the full dimensions to avoid confusion.

If a manufacturer lists the usable range, we'll include it here as well (this is now very rare).

Total dimensions
17 mm x 28 mm / 1 in x 1 in­­­­
Materials Main Material: 7075-T6 aluminum
­
Certification CE
Totem Cam Review by Outdoor Gear Lab
Totem Cam Overview

A well-spoken and easy to understand technical overview and personal review, with comparisons to other cams by Josh Higgins.

Strength Test of Totem and Basic Cam
Cleaning a Totem Cam
AVG RATING
6
( 6 avg )
Rating
6
( 6 avg )

Move over BD, these are the new standard in SLCDs

From a little company in Spain comes one of the best, if not THE best, SLCD on the market today. Totem takes the best points out of all of the cams on the market and wrap it up in a neat, quirky package that isn't just gimmicky, but extremely functional.

First think you'll notice is that these guys look weird; different from any other cam out there. Wires connect all the parts together, with only a very short stem and axle present. This gives the cam flexibility beyond the offerings of anything else. They are so flexible, I've often found it unnecessary to add a quick draw to avoid walking. The wires also allow you to directly load two out of the four lobes. While this has little application in the free climbing world, it's a great selling point for aid climbers, making two lobe placements much more secure and balanced.

The cam head is where the magic happens. Made out of 6061-T6 aluminum, the head is softer than most others on the market. 6061 is the same material that CCH Aliens were made out of, and the "softness" of the aliens has been praised as one of their strong points. This material bites the rock and seats better than the harder materials used by other manufacturers, giving the placement a very secure feel, even in marginal conditions.

The shape of the head is also obviously different from anything else out there. It is the narrowest on the market (narrower than aliens or TCUs), making those shallow placements a breeze. The lobe shape has been specifically designed by Totem's engineer to apply fall forces to the rock in a different manner than traditional lobe shapes. This design not only works better in all situations, but absolutely excels in flaring placements. There's a 6 page PDF document on the Totem website explaining the science behind their lobe design in comparison to others (pages of mathematical proofs included), so check it out if you don't believe me, or are just a nerd like myself. I've had the distinct pleasure of testing this theory out myself by taking a few falls on the Totems, a 40 footer on a purple being the biggest, and the fact that I'm here writing this is a testament to the fact that they do indeed work!

There are currently 5 sizes available and they range from small fingers to small hands size. Color coded to match the #1 and 2 (blue and yellow) mastercam sizes, and purple-green-red (.5, .75, 1) BD C4 sizes. Makes grabbing these and finding the right size pretty easy.

There are a few drawbacks to the totem cams:
- They're more expensive than your standard go-to brands and their distribution network is still kind of small (although it's growing), so finding them can be somewhat of a hassle. Prices were raised in the middle of 2013, and MSRP is 79.99 USD. That being said, if you order 5 cams off of Totem's website, they knock the price down to $60 each, so they become more in-line with the rest of the SLCD price offerings. Backcountrygear.com is also a distributor and often has 20% off coupon codes you can use to make these more affordable.
- They rack kind of funny. Not a huge deal, but they lay "flat" on your leg instead of perpendicular like C4s and the like. Not an issue when you have a full rack on your harness and are climbing anyway, but some people are weird about that sort of thing, so it's worth mentioning
- They only come in sizes up to 1! I wish they would make larger ones. Maybe someday in the future!

All in all, these are the best cams I have used, period. I've put about 200+ pitches on them this season and I'm incredibly impressed with their performance. I'm so impressed with these that I've completely sold my rack of BD and Metolius cams in these sizes to replace exclusively with Totem cams. Yes, that's right, THESE ARE BETTER THAN C4s! Watch out BD; as Totem grows you're going to have a hard time keeping that #1 spot!

Outdoor Gear Lab Gear Review rating 4.9/5

The main reason to get this cam is it will fit in awkward pods that you often encounter on big walls. You can also load the cams with only two lobes contacting the rock. This fact, coupled with their increased holding power in flaring placements, makes them an ideal specialty aid piece.

We appreciated the increased range that these cams have; although not the best range we tested, it's pretty good.

The thing that we liked most about these is the innovative thinking that went into the design. Totem Cams make a complete departure from traditional cam design and create something that is new, exciting, and functional.

UK Climbing Gear Review no rating given just a review

The Totem is an excellent all-rounder, with a number of specific benefits; furthermore, it is exceptionally well made and as a result justifies it's price tag. For those wishing to go big-walling/aid climbing look no further, this is the cam for you. For those wishing to use it trad climbing, this is the perfect cam for marginal/insecure placements and a joy to use and place. One other piece of good news for those wishing to get a long life out of their Totem, you will be glad to hear they operate a repair service.

Climbing Gear Reviews UK Performance 4/5 Quality 5/5 Value for money 3/5

They looked very different to any other cams on the market with that U shaped tape and A shaped stems, both of these features proved very useful when we tried them out climbing. The spacer that separated the stems felt comfortable to use with both my thumb tip and the in Thenar (the area where your thumb meets your hand) area, there was a slight issue with gloves on, but the flexibility of the stems did allow the stems to widen out. Further up the stem lead to the trigger which was made from injection moulded plastic, this was ergonomic enough to use with my fingers but if you’ve got fingers like sausages then they could become a little more uncomfortable with prolonged use, flattening out and enlarging the trigger would solve this easily.

Climbing Gear Review

These new cams from Spain’s Basque Country cover five sizes, ranging from fingertips to small hands. The radical feature of their design is the way a load activates the cams: Instead of the stem and axle bearing the load, as in most cams, each Totem lobe is attached to an individual spring-action cable extending to the clip-in sling. This allows more secure two-cam placements for aid climbing, and the unique cabling and lobe design give the Totems more holding power in downward flaring cracks and pods. They also have more range than other single-axle cams. Testers felt they provided more placement options than many cams and could be a real boon for clean-aid climbing. The cabling is also super-flexible in all directions, further enhancing placement options and stability; testers found they tended to walk less than other cams. Totems are not widely available at retailers, but you can order them at the company website with free shipping to the U.S.—and there’s a 10 percent discount for five or more, bringing them in line with many other cams’ pricing.

The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.

An order form to get a re-sling, have the trigger wire ropes replaced, or springs replaced for any of Totems cams.

Totem clearly explains how to load two and three lobes and still have a solid placement using Totem Cams.

Actually well-done instructions explaining (words and pictures) where Totem Cams can be used and how to use them.