The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
New frictional anchor system, excellent alternative to traditional cams, to be used in the wider cracks, by keeping at the same time light weigth and small dimensions.
Fitted with a special button that allows to lock open in the device for an easy insertion in the crack.
|Weight (g / oz)|
Weight (g / oz)
In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
|485.0 g / 17.11 oz|
|Cam Head||6 lobes, single axle|
|Stem||(no stem) no stem|
|Active Strength|| 15 kN|
|Cam Range (mm / in)|
Cam Range (mm / in)
In millimeters and inches, the maximum dimensions of the cam lobes when shut tight and fully extended. Since the "usable" range is so debatable, all manufacturers now list the full dimensions to avoid confusion.
If a manufacturer lists the usable range, we'll include it here as well (this is now very rare).
| Total dimensions|
92 mm x 205 mm / 4 in x 8 in
|Materials|| Main Material: Alu Alloy|
Wire Material: N/A
|Certification||CE, EN, UIAA|
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-125 and EN-12276 standards for frictional anchors (which includes SLCD's [cams] and Ballnuts).
See a few more detailed shots of the Gipsy