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Mammut Nano 8

Nano 8

Rating

My vote: None ( 3.8 avg )

Description

Ultra-lightweight rappel device for very low diameter ropes. The Nano 8’s special design and shape allow different strengths of braking levels to be achieved to ideally adjust the rappelling speed.

Ideal for Freeriding / Boarding, Skitouring / Backcountry Skiing.

Suitable for Classical Alpinism, Expeditions.

Retail price

US$ 14.95
Device Type

Device Type

Tube

The most commonly used belay type also called an “ATC” or “tuber.” Other than a distinction between other belay device types, “Tube” is a rarely used term, most climbers just assume you're talking about this style when they refer to your "belay device."

Tube belay device example

Figure 8

Mostly used in rescue, canyoneering, tactical, work safety, or by old school climbers and rappellers. One reason they went out of popularity with recreational climbers is because they tend to create twists in the rope.

Figure 8 belay device example

Brake Assist

These devices assist in stopping the rope when a climber falls or hangs on the rope.

Brake Assist belay device example

Often referred to as “auto-blocking” but that’s not the official terminology because no belay device should be assumed to work automatically by itself, even if it feels like it does (or does most the time).

Plate

When simplicity is a must, or you started climbing before Tubers were the norm. Bonus: They tend to be very light weight.

Plate belay device example

Descender

For rappelling, not for belaying a lead climber or top-roping.

Descender example
Figure 8
Weight (g)

Weight (g)

In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

44 g
Belay Brake Assist

Belay Brake Assist

This is when the belay device significantly reduces the amount of holding power the belayer must exert to stop a fall and hold a climber.

This is also called "assisted-braking" as the device must hold a significant amount of the climber’s weight; this term does not include friction-adding "teeth" found on some tube style belay devices.

Confusingly referred to as “auto-blocking” or “auto-locking” these terms wrongly imply the device will always, automatically, stop a fall or hold a climber even if the belayer/rappeller is hands-free. These devices are not meant to be used without a hand on the braking side of the rope; the belayers/rapppeller brake hand should always be on the brake rope.

Worth Considering

Most of the mechanical brake assist devices only hold a single strand of rope and are not capable of double-strand rappelling (the most common method of rappel).

No
Rope Options 1 or 2 ropes
Guide Mode

Guide Mode

This is when you belay directly off the anchor instead of your harness. Guide mode is helpful if you climb outdoors a lot because it reduces the holding power required from the belayer. When your partner falls or rests, the weight of the climber is held mostly by the anchor and the belay device.

Tubers and Plates

When belaying in "guide mode," the tubers and plates turn auto-blocking. During a fall, the climbing rope pinches the slack rope, completely stopping the movement of either rope. A common guide mode setup shown below.

A double rope tubular device guide mode example

Mechanical Brake Assist Devices

There is no difference in the functionality of the device. A brake-hand should always be on the rope to ensure the climber is caught in the case of a fall. A common guide mode setup shown below.

A single rope mechanical brake assist guide mode example

Where guide mode is used

  • multi-pitch sport or trad climbs
  • single-pitch where you need to bring up a follower (say for a walk-off)

Learn More

http://www.climbing.com/skill/essential-skills-auto-blocking-belay-devices/

No guide mode
Teeth

Teeth

Teeth are only seen on tube devices. They add friction that helps grip the rope for more belaying control.

This is helpful for belaying heavier climbers. Teeth are becoming standard on new tube devices.

The belay device teeth are shown in the red circle

Worth Considering

Teeth do wear out. You can limit wear by rappelling on the side without teeth (if you don’t need the extra friction). Once they’re worn, you’ll still have a usable belay device, just less friction.

No
Rope Range (mm)

Rope Range (mm)

The range of rope diameters, in millimeters, that the manufacturer/brand specifies can safely be used.

This is the best case scenario and does not necessarily take into consideration that certified ropes have a tolerance of +/- .3 mm.

Recently, manufacturers have started to add an "optimized" rope range -- this is the range that will result in the nicest handling of the belay device.

4.0 mm  - 11.0 mm ­­­
Certification

Certifications

The main climbing gear certifications are CE and UIAA--and normally the UIAA creates the rules that the CE body also supports. When possible, we try to list all the certifications the product carries.

To sell a climbing product in Europe, the device must be CE certified. There are no official requirements to sell climbing gear in the US. The UIAA certification is a voluntary process.

Learn More

Rock and Ice Certifications Guide
­
AVG RATING
4.68
( 4.7 avg )
Rating
6
( 6 avg )

Crazy Small Belay Device

Pros
Great figure eight for thin cords
Cons
No belay from above mode
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

This is a great figure 8 device for thin cords. I've tested it with my 7.3mm glacier cord and it works great with either one or two strands. Backed up with an autoblock I could hang in place on a single strand.

This is a great figure 8 device for thin cords. I've tested it with my 7.3mm glacier cord and it works great with either one or two strands. Backed up with an autoblock I could hang in place on a single strand.

Rating
6
( 6 avg )

Exceptionally Useful for Small Rope Diameters

Pros
Lightweight
Specialist Device for 6-7.5mm Small Diameter Rope Only
Beautifully Designed and Made
Compact Size
Cons
Very Specialised Narrow Rope Thickness Range (not really a 'con')
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times
Disclaimer
I bought this product for use with the 6mm Petzl RAD line for glacier safety when skitouring.

Incredible to see that other folks give this excellent device a poor review, after using it incorrectly! This device is only for very narrow 6-7.5mm ropes. When used correctly it is exceptionally useful for both abseil and belay. You MUST test and get used to using it.

When single roping 6mm lines it still only offers marginal friction unless you add a backup Prussik. See me using mine here, https://twitter.com/jamesmadelin/status/1115232494939529216 including a trick I found to add friction; pass the rope back through your 'crab, to force the rope across itself and add friction when abseiling.

Rating
2.04
( 2 avg )

too small to be usable

Pros
lightweight!
Cons
too small to be usable
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

I got one of these for use in canyoneering. I tried to use it with a single 10.5mm rope and double 9mm rope. It wouldn't accomodate either setup. I think it says 6mm to 7.5mm on the device! I don't know any 6mm ropes that I'd be OK rappelling on.

I got one of these for use in canyoneering. I tried to use it with a single 10.5mm rope and double 9mm rope. It wouldn't accomodate either setup. I think it says 6mm to 7.5mm on the device! I don't know any 6mm ropes that I'd be OK rappelling on.

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