The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
Ball Nut 1
• Rock Climbing, Aid Climbing
• The smallest active protection in the world
• Color-coded for fast identification
• Narrow depth fits shalllower cracks than traditional camming units
For the slim and grim. Invented in 1987 by John Middendorf and originally brought to market as Lowe Balls, these have become the secret weapon of many aid and trad climbers. These little wonders will work in small parallel-sided cracks where the only other option is pounding a piton. Ball Nuts also work in pin scars and small flares where cams simply won’t fit. Since they weigh so little, many advanced trad climbers keep a #2 and #3 on their rack at all times.
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|Weight (g / oz)|
Weight (g / oz)
In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
|31 g / 11.00 oz|
The size according to the manufacturer/brand.
The main or identifying color of the device.
In kilonewtons, the strength as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
|Range (in / mm)|
Range (in / mm)
In inches and millimeters, the maximum range as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
| 0.12 in - 0.24 in|
3.00 mm - 6.00 mm
CAMP has some really great, versatile, rock protection that you can add to your rack for not a lot of money and not a lot of weight. It has made our climbing more fun and safe, and frankly made it possible to get up the Finger of Fate, which I don’t think would have been possible otherwise.
I’ve been using the Vergo for several months now, and one of the reasons Trango sent me one early was because they knew I’m a huge GriGri fan and very skeptical of competitors. Before the Vergo I would have said there were some OK alternatives, but nothing I had tried would ever replace the GriGri for me. That has changed with the Vergo, as much as it pains me to say anything negative about my beloved GriGri, and there are plenty of days when it’s the only device I take with me to the crag.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-125 and EN-12276 standards for frictional anchors (which includes SLCD's [cams] and Ballnuts).